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Thread: Engine Mount Help

  1. #1
    I am tossing out the 396 in my 1970 sanger flat and just bought a blown dart 540 (1000hp). I need to move the motor up about 8 inches. I bought all of my rails, new mounts......well almost ner everything and most of the engine stuff fron Dan at canyon. All new cavitation pedal, turnbuckles..ect from bergeron. I have also talked to Joe Shelfo and Dan about setting up the boat. These are two of the nicest guys I have ever talked to in the boating community. I don't think this is this rocket science but could use some advise from all who are willing. I was told to be 36 inches from transom to motor mount. I am using a 12 degree casale with air shift and will have a whirlaway. Should I mount the rails even on the sides or shoul I angle them. I want to run them even on the stringers if possible. Please give me any info you might have as I would like to get as many opinions as possible.

  2. #2
    ol guy
    Just a thought but the last thing I would want to do on an older boat is put more holes in the stringers. Time takes its toll and water satuaration speeds the process. Motor plates are alot cheeper than trying to replace a classic sanger. Figure the angles and if you want to the motor forward you will need to drop the motor. Cut the plates. Just my 2cents. M

  3. #3
    ol guy
    And by the way thats a cool addictor on you're AV. Those things are a kick in the %$%$(*

  4. #4
    I think you need to get some guidance from gofastracer or moneypit. 1k HP would need steel strut, rudder, etc. Plus 12 degree is too steep of an angle. 10 degree with 7-8 degree strut is the setup from what I have read. That much HP makes Engine placement and V-drive placement even more important than a 600 HP ski boat. get some expert opinions and heed their advice.

  5. #5
    I know about the v-drive...I should have a 10deg and it should be way forward. I am going to complete the boat because I am way to deep into it to back out now. You should see my garage wall..It's full of all new stuff. Anyway....I just want to hot rod it at the lake for a year or two and then pull the engine and throw it in a 501...I just want to get the most out of this hull for now....thanks guys for the help......hopefully gofastracer or moneypit will chime in.......:idea:

  6. #6
    Well, the way that boat is setup, you won't be able to use a 3rd of that 1000hp, not to mention the integrity of all the hardware!. If you want to enjoy that boat the way it is, save a ton of money and time and just put a stocker in it and go play, otherwise it's plug everything up and start over and do it "right"!.. But it's strictly your choice!...

  7. #7
    Wait a minute.....You mean you get a CHOICE..

  8. #8
    Lookin for Liquid
    Here is my .02 cents.....Making a drag boat go down the course and be "happy" is all about achieving the correct balance so that it is not fighting itself while trying to maintain the correct attitude. I have moved motors back and forth 4" each way to experiment in handling charasteristic's and didn't see any vast change either way. You will see a greater change by moving the strut and/or propellor forward or backward in order to gain the desired attitude since it is designating the lifting point of the whole boat while the propshaft is pushing it forward.
    Depending on how deep the strut is (usually about 7 degrees on current boats)...I don't think you will be able to mount the rails at a 4-5 degreee angle and catch all of the stringer with your rails. If it was me I would put them 1" below rail top and stick the motor back around 34 and get that extra 2" in the seat room and in turn that will help the balance anyway as you are going to find the more power you put to the boat, you will be driving the nose in the water more as well. Don't be surprised if you trim about an 1" or so off the back of the "steel" strut after you try it for the first time....and take baby steps!
    Sorry that was about .04 cents.......

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