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Thread: sea pump pressure?

  1. #21
    BDMar
    I'm glad you brought this up, I was looking back there to possibly drill and tap into the manifold at the rear. I dont understand how water could circulate back there when it enters the front and exits the front 6 inches above. I was thinking of running a -6 to each side and then through the relief valve and -8out the transom. This way it would only circulate at high pressure (high speed)
    Any thoughts from the experts?
    Those lines should be very small. We make them 1/4 I.D. and tee them togetherso there is only a 1/4" totalexit hole for both heads as they are only there to get rid of air pockets. If they are too large the cylinder head will not cool properly.

  2. #22
    Badburn
    Just to follow up with a result on this..... I drilled and tapped a new 1/2 NPT outlet into the thermostat housing, Hooked the bypass to it with a -10 all the way to the water dump. The reason for this is because I wanted the water to go through the oil cooler before it gets dumped. It works good, I think the bypass starts to open around 15-20 PSI.
    I also replaced the 1-1/4 hose with higher pressure hose and added the trick hose clamps that badblown572 recommended.
    Nothing blew up, or blew off. The water pressure went from 60 before to about 42 psi now at speed. Not sure if its low enough.

  3. #23
    DMOORE
    Another set up I have seen on off shore boats, is to run a sea strainer after the drive pick-up. Then run a relief valve off the strainer. Many have multiple ports that work great for this purpose. The high pressure never reaches the motor, and there is no reduction of volume. Its an easy and very clean set up.
    Darrell.

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