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I have about 20 hours on my new 11 to 1 454 in my 83 sleekcraft jet. I just changed my oil and have a very fine metalic content in it. The engine is running great and ran outstanding all week long when we dragged it down to tablerock last week. Just reliable as you can expect after a couple of initial jet changes from our 6200 altitude here in colorado springs versus 960 at table rock. I put about 200 to 250 miles on it, mostly around 4000 rpm. Is this just cam break in stuff or should I get a sample done? I basically got it running and left for Missouri the next day so I didn't get to change the oil after the cam break in wich I know isn't the best thing to do.
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It's probably from the cam breaking in.
Not good to run with the same oil after cam break-in. You should change the oil after cam break-in to empty the silver/metallic oil out. Passing all that fine particulate metallics through the engine can't be good for your engines longevity.
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I highly recommend a magnet on the oil filter.
CC
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The rule of thumb is this. First, just like 502 stated, that oil has to be changed right after break in, and again in not too long after that. The engine has small metal shavings around from just breaking in. You need to keep these out of the engine.
The basic rule is if the stuff is all silver, you are pretty safe. If you see copper color, then WOOPS!
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What oil are you running in it? flat tappet cam? any eos or any other type of zinc addative??
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What oil are you running in it? flat tappet cam? any eos or any other type of zinc addative??I am running valvoline premium blue 15/40 in everything I own. I had a cam additive in the new oil. the valvoline has the highest amounts of calcium, magnesiumm phosphorus, zinc, boron, and moybdenum of all of the diesel oils and is slightly better than rotella sythetic. I had a very close call at 60 with the boat on cam breakind and was fighting the saddle tank vent fuel leaks and pretty much had my head up my you know what the days prior to our vacation. It runs 30 psi oil pressure at idle and 70+ from 2000 rpm on up. I have absolutely no blow by leaks or noises other than the usual ticking of forged pistons. The cam is hydraulic .567 lift comp Heres a short list of parts.
KB 10.7s
Ohio forged crank and h beam 6.385 rods fully ballanced
stainless 2.19s and 1.88s in ported 049 heads
Edelbrock performer RPM air gap intake matched to heads
Melling premium HV oil pump with pressure spring
Comp cams .567, 242@.050 hyd. Comp stainless roller rockers
Dart adjustable guide plates, these are great to use
block decked .005 and heads .007
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