Reply With QuoteIf your glastron has an "E" pump, dont expect to pull a ton of rpm from it, I have never gotten and big rpm from mine, and have had everything from a blown motta to a 11.5 to 1 429 in it.
...i have considered a stroker kit by "scat" but am a little leary of the constant high rpm and what it will do to the reliablity. i don't want to spend ten grand on a 30 year old boat, even though it is totally cosmetically restored in and out except for the 10 year old rebuild on the engine. i got the heads today but did'nt see any s#. where would that be? i am pleased at there 32 lbs. weight....will get the comp cam, this is a river/lake cruiser that pulls lots of tubes and boards.Jeff, some points to think about:
Assuming the same set of heads on two different engines, strokers will make a given hp number at a lesser rpm than a non-stroker engine.
If you don't want to put a lot of money into your engine, then I suggest that you get one of the aformentioned camshafts and install it in your current engine and call it good.
Do not use either of those camshafts should you decide to build a stroker engine, as such a stroker engine will perform better with an entirely different camshaft.
Although you still haven't clarified, it now sounds as though you bought a brand new set of Ford Motorsport SCJ heads. If this is the case, consider that the SCJ valve layout is of a different orientation relative to the valve pockets in the KB hyper pistons. And since KB's are specially designed to put the pistons closer to zero deck in an undecked block, you can very likely have valve-to-piston interference problems. So if you have the Ford Motorsport SCJ heads, STOP and learn more about what you are attempting to throw together.
The valve train with the D3VE heads will not transfer over to the aluminum heads that you have purchased. In order to install those heads onto an engine, you will need roller rockers and pushrods (assuming that what you bought already has the valves/springs/studs, etc.) And you cannot know which length pushrods to purchase until the rest of the engine is assembled and vavle train geometry can be evaluated.
I still don't know if you have flat top or dished pistons; knowing this will help me suggest alternate setups for your current engine that can get you the power that you desire.
I would say your best choices for performance upgrades are the following: Put one of the aforementioned camshafts in your current engine and call it good...perhaps some portwork on the D3VE's which can wake the engine up significantly more. And then just run your boat.
Keep the parts you have acquired thus far, keep the engine in your boat just as it is...and then start putting together a stroker engine on the side while you enjoy your running boat. I would suggest a shortblock, 500-cube stroker with the special pistons needed for the (assumed) SCJ heads, then install the new heads onto that shortblock and swap other external parts over from the running engine to your newly built 500-cube longblock. You can do this in your own sweet time and it won't hit your wallet as hard as having your boat apart and trying to get back into the water pronto while throwing money at it.
For a recent maintenance free 500-cuber stroker build that we did, click HERE. (http://www.***boat.com/forums/showth...569&highlight=)
Feel free to call me with any questions, I'm beginning to think there might be lots for you to get briefed on and too much to type here. I'd be happy to provide you with plenty of insight.
LO
If your glastron has an "E" pump, dont expect to pull a ton of rpm from it, I have never gotten and big rpm from mine, and have had everything from a blown motta to a 11.5 to 1 429 in it.
also dan with the cv-23, your boat has an "a" impeller from the factory. don't change to the "b". you will slow down out of the hole, burn 20% more gas and lose top end. if you don't have a place diverter get on either electric or manuel [which i have] and this will get the bow up and you'll pick up 3-5 mph. what color combo do you have?
Jeff,
Thanks for the info on the impeller. I think I will buy a diverter this winter if I don't sell it. I really like this boat, I'm always have people come up and ask abouit it or make comments on it. What year and color is yours, my a 1979 gold flake and yellow. Just love the sound of that 460 cranking up to speed!!!
Dan
its a 1978 metalflake copper with almond color in the solid gelcoat areas, with almond interior with chestnut stripes and piping. it does'nt sound to swift in print but it is actually very slick looking. i got hit by an idiot driver on the way to the river 2 years ago while it was on the trailer, and got the insurance company to pay me $8600. to settle the claim. they wanted to give me $5000. and keep the boat but i got an attorney to send them a nasty letter and they paid up. it gave me the cash to get a new matching trailer from the original manufactuer, fixed the windshield, fixed the little bit of damage the boat incurred,and all new interior upholstery and carpet, plus all new gauges and steering wheel. so i am real proud of it. not many around, and i have a waiting list of people who want to buy it should i decided to sell. so if you want to seel let me know and i'll give you a couple of #s in the houston area that want one. enjoy your rig!!
Jeff,
My is gold/copper flakes with the light yellow. When I bought it it had the 1979 plugs in it. Still has the stock point, cap, rotor, and wires from 1979. I've had it out on the river a few times this week and I would be floating along and would have people come by turn around and come back to talk about it. Loading/unloading is the same, people are always asking about, some are shocked when I tell them the year and that it's all stock. I would sell it for $9,000. only because I have a Glastron 19CSS that I redoing so I would still own a another rare Glastron. The CV23 won't be the fasted boat out there but for comfort, looks, and sound it's rate at the top in my book!
Dan
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