Reply With QuoteBe sure you have all the Tools needed before you start this procedure...Also, have plenty of manpower/ Beer at the ready...And "ALWAYS WEAR PROTECTION"....
If you use a torch, it will not chip the gel coat. You'll need a new boat, but the gel coat won't be chipped!
Be sure you have all the Tools needed before you start this procedure...Also, have plenty of manpower/ Beer at the ready...And "ALWAYS WEAR PROTECTION"....
That sanger has to already have plenty of holes drilled in it.
Don't drill anymore in the dash is my $0.000001.
If you must have a key switch can't you just swap put the push button that is already there? If not make a little bracket and catch a bolt on the rail kit, some place on the engine or maybe one of the many bolts by the seat / v drive.
But for the sake of the next guy, please don't drill any more holes in the ol girl!
Thats exactly what I was thinking I have my starter button and switch mounted on a peice of angle on the stringer right in front of the seat. Don't hack up the hull man.
While I agree with badblown572 about pre-drilling with a 1/4 inch bit, I've never heard of using the hole saw backwards. If that's his way of doing it I think that's great, but I've never had a problem chipping the gelcoat using the hole saw the intended way. I do on the other hand run a drill bit backwards in the gel for a second before drilling a hole. That'll eliminate any chipping.
The only thing I do differently is once I pre-drill, I go to the back side of the dash and drill into the 1/4 hole with the hole saw (no matter what I'm drilling, switch, tach, small gauge...) until I'm 1/4 of an inch into the wood, then I move back to the front of the dash and finish the hole. This way I don't get any tearout of the plywood as the hole saw goes through the dash (if the backside dash isn't completely glassover with cloth...like it shoud be) and I get a nice looking hole from the back of the dash. After all, this is where I spend a lot of time doing the wiring, I want to enjoy what I'm looking at.
The only thing I do differently is once I pre-drill, I go to the back side of the dash and drill into the 1/4 hole with the hole saw (no matter what I'm drilling, switch, tach, small gauge...) until I'm 1/4 of an inch into the wood, then I move back to the front of the dash and finish the hole. This way I don't get any tearout of the plywood as the hole saw goes through the dash (if the backside dash isn't completely glassover with cloth...like it shoud be) and I get a nice looking hole from the back of the dash. After all, this is where I spend a lot of time doing the wiring, I want to enjoy what I'm looking at.
That's a nice tip! I was thinking just be reeeel ginger as you near the back, but this is clearly a pro tip.
For me, the most difficult part is drilling the hole square to the dash surface. Stickmann's idea of clamping a bench-drilled plywood piece as a guide is another slick move.
I was told to use a hole saw from both sides. Makes for a clean cut and it's easier to get the piece out of the saw.
One more method
For 9/16 size drill a pilot hole,than counter sink a bit larger than 9/16.
than drill 9/16. The counter sink will help from chipping the gel.
I also like to use a dull drill .A new sharp drill might grab and chip the gel.
if using a new drill dull it with sand paper.And like said before let the tool do the job.
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