Where's the luv Tommy?
How do U decide how long and wide the ride plate should be?
And... are the bent-up edges on the ride plate for strength or is there another reason for them?
The size on mine was only determined by the piece of aluminum I had. It had taller sides on it that I cut down to there with a skillsaw. I figured it was for strength.
Scarab Jet, yes the sides bent up are for strength. You'd be surprised how much these plates will flex.
TJS, is that a shoe blank ? That's what JetBoy03 used for his support. It looks pretty damn good I must say !!! And yes the
Tom (JBP), Rork would be done by now if he didn't spend so much time in front of the comp
Malcolm, Now if you could only beat Konabud in a race :sqeyes:
Just stirring the pot
"Tom (JBP), Rork would be done by now if he didn't spend so much time in front of the comp"
Droptop, Johnny would be done by now if I didn't keep Emailing him asking "if he was done" (kind of like "are we there yet") lol It would also help you Washington boys if you could ever get a break from fog, low clouds, rain, sleet.... i already told him he could camp at my place for the winter
Riverbound we'll know more after we test the proto I'll keep you posted ..Tom
"Tom (JBP), Rork would be done by now if he didn't spend so much time in front of the comp"
Droptop, Johnny would be done by now if I didn't keep Emailing him asking "if he was done" (kind of like "are we there yet") lol It would also help you Washington boys if you could ever get a break from fog, low clouds, rain, sleet....
LOL ! You must know our weather well Tom. One day it was 80*(that's hot summer temp for us
Keep bugging him ! Maybe he'll continue to work on his own stuff for a change
Don't want to highjack here but I just finished machining my cradle mount. I made it so the holes let the ride plate ride at 0 degrees. Then I slotted the holes to allow adjustment from 2 to 5 degrees (I used a digital angle meter). I am still rigging the boat and close to being ready. Here is a pic of my plate set up (still has dykem on it) and rigging work. Oh it is a 77 Nordic bubble.
T.J.
http://www.tjsperformance.com/images/nordic46.jpg
just a question... with this type of mount, which looks the same as the other one, how would you accomodate experimenting with wedges, which would move the nozzle housing flange back and forth? i need to do something similar, but was thinking more about a flat spacer with tabs, between the bowl/nozzle housing, then attach a plate to the tabs. thoughts?
I can't wait to see it done, !
You're assuming that I'll ever finish it Droppy.......
just a question... with this type of mount, which looks the same as the other one, how would you accomodate experimenting with wedges, which would move the nozzle housing flange back and forth? i need to do something similar, but was thinking more about a flat spacer with tabs, between the bowl/nozzle housing, then attach a plate to the tabs. thoughts?
I would just slot the bottom plate so I can compensate for the wedge I guess, I have not got that far yet.
T.J.
I would just slot the bottom plate so I can compensate for the wedge I guess, I have not got that far yet.
T.J.
yeah, i think that could work too, i just have to eyeball it some more. i already have a 3 degree down wedge in it, but the tank still porpoises at 30-32 with the pd all down.
i don't think i'll go with the up down slots though, as it's expecting a lot just from clamping force. i'll make mine shorter and just make some shims.
doing it this way will certainly be a lot less work than a spacer...
don't know if anybody is still here, or thinking about this thread, but over the winter i've been able to spend a little time on the 23' hallett. after i got the old tank late last year, found it had a noticable porpoise at low speed, among a whole bunch of other stuff... after this thread, and talking to some other folks, it seemed obvious that i needed to add a plate of some type. here's what i did...
http://i215.photobucket.com/albums/c...bp/Pump003.jpg
i made the plate out of 1/4" aluminum from the metal yard junk pile, then took an old piece of angle that i had to make the spacer that mounts on the bowl. obtw, last year's pump was completely blueprinted during the winter - probably the most valuable thing on this boat now. spent a ton of time getting the studs the right length for all the wedge i'm going to try. last year, it had 4 degrees down and still porpoised with the diverter all the way down. going to try 6 degrees and see what happens.
http://i215.photobucket.com/albums/c...bp/Pump005.jpg
the front of the plate is machine screwed up into a block that's bolted to the transom adapter (block of aluminum scrounged from metal yard scrap pile). the screws bolting the block to the t/a are as short as i could use, get the lock nuts real tight and still clear the bottom of the intake. the block will never come off the t/a - i made it this way to be stout, yet have ease of installation and removal in case i want to change wedges.
here's a before pic of the pump installed in the boat...
http://i215.photobucket.com/albums/c...cture014-1.jpg
and here's the after pic...
http://i215.photobucket.com/albums/c...May2008002.jpg
couple things slowed this a little - other boat takes absolute precedence over this one, and there was some work to do to it during the off season. secondly, there was a bunch of other cobblejunk that had to be corrected on this thing, third, the floor had to be replaced all the way to the front bulkhead, which is now done. i'm gonna run it with old ratty interior, but i've already got the upholsterer thinking about the new one. kind of antsy to see how this works with the plate and better-than-new pump, but still have a couple of registration things to take care of - hopefully on the water next week.
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