Reply With QuoteThe CMC plate retails for about $720. If you shop a little or know someone with a wholesale account, you can get them for about $650.
If you can't find another source, let me know and I can get you one.
ZSARGO:
HavasuBarney:
I run a CMC also. I like the self contained units with no extra pump in the boat. Very simple to install and run about $650. Where can I get a CMC for that price?? Les, if you weren't so busy breakin your truck, eek! price wouldn't be so much of a factor
Btw, Brian wass up?
The CMC plate retails for about $720. If you shop a little or know someone with a wholesale account, you can get them for about $650.
If you can't find another source, let me know and I can get you one.
HavasuBarney:
The CMC plate retails for about $720. If you shop a little or know someone with a wholesale account, you can get them for about $650.
If you can't find another source, let me know and I can get you one.
[ March 10, 2003, 10:49 PM: Message edited by: ZSARGO ]
OK. AFTER DOING A LITTLE RESEARCH... HERE'S WHAT I'VE BEEN TOLD. IF I BUY A CMC I SHOULD GET THE ML -65SS. THEY WANT $1558 FOR IT RETAIL. THIS IS A HEAVY DUTY APPLICATION FOR HEAVY OUTBOARDS WITH LOTS OF HORSEPOWER. DCB AND LAKELAND MARINE BOTH ADVISE ME THAT IF I DO RUN A JACK PLATE, IT SHOULD BE A MANUAL ONE NOT HYDRAULIC. MOST OF THE TIME IT WILL BE SET UP FOR SPEED SO JUST CRANK DOWN THE MOTOR WITH A SOCKET WEHN YOU WANT TO MESS WITH THE ENGINE HEIGHT. HOLESHOT WOULD NOT BE AS GOOD IF THE MOTOR IS SET HIGH THOUGH. MOST PEOPLE DON'T THINK THE HYDRAULIC JACK PLATE IS VERY RELIABLE.
ZSARGO:
MOST PEOPLE DON'T THINK THE HYDRAULIC JACK PLATE IS VERY RELIABLE. I have had a CMC hydraulic jack plate (that I bought used none the less) on my 19' Eliminator Daytona since early 1996. The boat is powered by a 240hp Merc V-6. I Have had NO PROBLEMS what so ever. NONE, NADDA, ZIP, ZILCH. No leaks, no malfunctioning, no guage problems, NOTHING. Granted, my motor is a lot lighter than yours, but I have seen OMC V-8's running jack plates. Your motor can't be as heavy as a V-8, so I would think you can find a reliable unit.
The problem with a manual jack plate is lack of versatility. If you ratchet the motor up high to perform on top end, then you suffer the consequences out of the hole. If you set it up to get out of the hole, then you run slower on top end. Personally, unless I built a Mirage or STV (which would be strictly to go fast), I would want the ability to control the plate from the cockpit. Verstility is great. On my boat, I like the ability to set the plate a little lower than optimum while getting on plane, then as soon as the prop bites, I am on both the up button for the jack and up button for the trim.
The other pro for going hydraulic is trailering. What I mean is ..........I hope you are running a transom saver from your trailer to your lower unit. If not, your transom hates you because every time you go over a bump, the weight and stress of the O/B hanging off the back is entirely absorbed by your transom. I learned the hard way and had to replace my transom.
Back to trailering.....the transom saver works best (provides the most support) with the jack plate down most of the way, and the trim up. So at the end of the day, I hit the jack plate down, trim the motor up, put the transom saver on........then off I go. Quick and easy.
Having to put a wrench on it every once in a while wouldn't be bad, but to have to wrench on that sucker all the time would stink.
For some reason, and I am not sure why.......DCB really doesn't like jack plates. argue If it were me, I might call Alan Stoker and Cougar Boats. Stoker put jack plates on their V-8 rigged 22' boats for a long time, and I believe Cougar puts them on their 22' tunnels that are equipped with 300X motors.
Good Luck!
One more thing, and I CAN'T STRESS THIS ENOUGH. If you go with a hydraulic plate (or even a manual plate), watch that water pressure gauage like a hawk. I don't know what Mercury specifies for water pressure on the 300X, but find out what it is. My guess is that it will be a minimum of 15lbs. at WOT. What ever the number is, don't ever run less water than what is recommended. Powerheads are expensive.
As soon as you can (meaning after break in), you should make some hard passes and get an idea on how high you can run the plate and maintain water pressure. After you find the highest possible position while maintaining water pressure, make a mental note of the guage setting for future reference. For example, I know I can't run my plate any higher than the 3/4 mark on the guage and maintain water pressure. Good Luck!
Sorry for all the posts in a row.....but it doesn't look like CMC offers their heavy duty plate in a hydraulic version. I would call Alan Stoker at John's Custom Marine and see what he uses and what he recommends for you application. Good Luck Les.
HavasuDreamin':
Sorry for all the posts in a row.....but it doesn't look like CMC offers their heavy duty plate in a hydraulic version. I would call Alan Stoker at John's Custom Marine and see what he uses and what he recommends for you application. Good Luck Les. THEY DO OFFER THE HEAVY DUTY PLATE. IT'S THE PL-65SS. IT RETAILS FOR $1615 ON THE WEBSITE YOUR PROVIDE. IT'S FOR RACING APPLICATIONS.
I can't believe I missed it. I am not even old yet. I must have been snoozing or something. sleeping Anyway, while it is expensive, I think that is the setup! Good Luck!
I've got a couple CMC myself, if you wanna run hard and in the sweetspot, gotta have one!
If you wanna spend $1600 for the stainless, cool more power to you. I've run the PL 65 for 3 years with a 98 300 and the 300X, after 400 hours, the hydraulics took a shit. The guy that rebuilt it messed up the switch but that's why I have 2 now.
I've had many jackplates over the years, the standard CMC PL 65 is still the best bang performer for the buck.
[ March 13, 2003, 09:45 PM: Message edited by: HavasuBarney ]
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