Does anyone have a technique on keeping them adjusted so the trailer does not slam back and forth?
Just wondering.
Depends on the type of coupler you have, but usually the slamming is caused by air in the brake lines, or a bad master cylinder. Trailer brakes are used so little that a good adjustment once a year should be more than sufficient, if all other components are functional.
Ducky,
Thanks, I went out to check those things and I found a dry master cylinder pounded on by the hitch. I pulled the drum to see if all was well and found this mess. It all looks ok just needs to be cleaned and bled. I pulled the shock also and the bushing at the bolt was wasted. I am off to the local trailer place to spend some money.
BTW this is all from an ATTWOOD setup on a Competitive Trailer.
Here are pics for everyones reference on why you should maintain the trailer once in a while.
http://www.***boat.com/forums/attach...1&d=1191259651
http://www.***boat.com/forums/attach...1&d=1191259651
http://www.***boat.com/forums/attach...1&d=1191259651
http://www.***boat.com/forums/attach...1&d=1191259651
You may want to replace the wheel cylinders. With all that rust in the master cylinder I would expect the wheel cylinders to be frozen. Check the steel line too. It may be rusty as well. If you put new cylinders pull the ruber caps off and lube the cylinders walls. It will help prevent rust.
The adjustment on attwood brakes you tighten the adjuster so the the wheels won't turn then back it off until the shoes don't drag. This is what attwood curenntly recomends. In the past they said to back them off 5 turns for tandem axles. I found this to work well as long as the shoes didn't drag.
Good luck, George
Correction on the adjustment. It's 5 clicks not 5 turns. Sorry:sqeyes:
I'd say you found the problems.... DAMN!
I'd definitely replace the wheel cylinders.
I think I'd probably replace the lines too. It might cost you an extra $20-25.
We only do new backing plates. Don't waste your time changing wheel cylinders. Any time the master is empty it's always rusted. That master is pretty common, the backing plates should retail for about 70 to 80 each. Wheel cylinders by themselves will be less but then you have rusted stuff, worn pads, and the labor to put it all together. That looks like a standard Dico master cylinder, don't forget to buy a new cap. It should run you 70 bucks or so for the master and another few bucks for a new cap. Repack your bearings, put new seals on, install all your parts and bleed your brakes. Just pump them buy hand while some one works the valves on the backing plates.
Your backing plates should be the standard 10 x 2 1/4 hydraulic. You'll need a left and a right, don't buy the electric ones.
I ran into the same thing when I bought my boat (used). Basically junked the entire brake system and started over. Since then, it goes to the trailer shop every year for inspection, fill/bleed/adjust, and check/pack all the bearings. This routine has served us well.
Since you're already doing all this work to the brake system, I'd say junk the current brake system and go with disc brakes. The problem with boat trailers and drum brakes is that water gets into the drums and takes awhile to get back out. With disc, everything is exposed and the rotors are dry within a couple of mins of driving.
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