Reply With QuoteShockwave, did you check the splines on the pump shaft and yoke of damage? I'm thinking some axial play is good to keep thermal expansion and hull flex from uneeded load on crank and pump thrust bearings. Just a guess tho.
jer
Ok guys- I'm working on the old boat today and if someone knows this please share- I'm fixing to seal my pump into the transom and connect the driveline for the last time- is the splined yoke that sticks into the pump supposed to be a free sliding fit into the pump? Mine is coming up solid and the splines do not slide- I had to tap
the yoke up into the pump with a wood block and a mallet and it was hard all the way on and it is stuck that way. It is supposed to slide in and out a little for clearance when it is running? I can fit it up like this, but once I seal the pump into the transom then I won't be able to take the driveline loose again because of the indexing shoulders on the yokes not having room to come loose. The pump is a rebuilt 12JG and the driveline is standard spicer 1310 on a BBC. I seriously do not want to have to frig' around with the engine mounts!!! I'll slap the hub on the lathe and turn it down shorter or cut a bit of length off the pump shaft before I do that. I just need to know if it is supposed to be a sliding fit and if so, how much clearance does it need? This thing is being a PITA!
Thanks,
HB
Shockwave, did you check the splines on the pump shaft and yoke of damage? I'm thinking some axial play is good to keep thermal expansion and hull flex from uneeded load on crank and pump thrust bearings. Just a guess tho.
jer
LVjetboy, well, seems as if I have some issues to deal with here. I kept thinking the yoke wasn't able to slide as far into the pump as I thought it should- so I took the cap off the pump that holds the seal and I see why- the splines on my input shaft appear to be twisted- not much, but enough to keep a brand new yoke from sliding all the way on. This sucks. When I had the pump worked on it was three years ago- I was on a major budget and I told them to only fix what had to be fixed to run. As far as I know all they did was change the wear ring, turn the impeller, and replace the bearings. I'm just getting to point with the boat to where I am trying to fit all this together for the first time to try and run it. Now it looks like I'm gonna be getting a new input shaft because there isn't any "sliding" it on- you got to "beat" the yoke on with a mallet. . And of course I can't find that Seloc manual I bought a few years back...
Can I tear this thing down and replace only the input shaft and expect my pump setup to be the same? Or is the shaft machined or modified in any way when a pump is setup?
Splines can take some abuse...I'm uploading a picture right now of my old shaft.
Amazing enough, that ^^^ still ran. Although suppose I was lucky to pull it when I did. Most of that damage done by a hard couple and engine misalignment.
If your shaft splines are twisted, the only way I know to fix it right is replace the shaft. If it's only a small twist, you could try the quick fix...a couple of good jewelers files and some patience. But I didn't say thatThe shaft is an r&r item I believe. No machining required. Impeller clearance should stay the same.
jer
[ October 27, 2002, 03:58 PM: Message edited by: LVjetboy ]
Shockwave, if the splines are twisted you need to replace the shaft. The fact that they're twisted indicates you're probably running too much power for a standard shaft. You should consider replacing it with a 17-4 material race shaft. you can view at http://www.rexmar.com/page119.html
If you need assistance regarding setup and how a shaft change may affect it just email your phone number and one of our jet techs will be happy to discuss your situation. (no you don't have to buy a shaft from us for this
Rexone, who took ur star away? B*stards! I give you five more for posting the usual solid advice. Not that stars mean anything of course...sorta like points for bible school attendance and all.
Of course, not knowing the history of Shockwave's pump or engine hp, the twist could've been from a past pump seizure...or jumping waves. Either way, the jeweler's file thingy was flakey I know
Now about those discount parts...
j/k
jer
[ October 27, 2002, 06:24 PM: Message edited by: LVjetboy ]
I do'know jer, guess I pissed someone off. It was that shoot me five thread, (more like starwars I think). Oh well the stars is just a little game, as long as I can help some people out once in a while, that's what I enjoy doing and the main reason I keep an eye on the boards.
Thanx for the stars too!
Hey Guys, thanks for the advice. Rexone, this pump is one I bought used- and had it gone through
three years ago when I bought the boat- I have never run it. (this boat has been one of those long kinds of projects that gets worked on when time and money will allow) The engine I'll be running is under 500 Hp right now- later down the line when I reconfigure it for a blower I will be pushing more. After pricing a new pump shaft, I may try to do some filing on it and see if I can make it work for now. I hate having to break the pump down to get to the shaft so while I'm in it I will probably opt for just replacing it. I could probably make it work filing it with it still in the pump but it is hard to get the file where it needs to be that way.
So, once more , for the record, the splines should slide right on and be able to move a small amount axially during operation? I figure I'll give it about 3/16" from bottoming in the yoke. Does that sound resonable? How many of you are running something other than the stock berkeley shaft?
HB
So, once more , for the record, the splines should slide right on and be able to move a small amount axially during operation? I figure I'll give it about 3/16" from bottoming in the yoke. Does that sound resonable?
Yes that should work.
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