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Thread: Serious Question here guys

  1. #1
    OverKill
    Question is about Loader and intake. My intake in not threw bolted just threaded to hold on the loader. Now I know threw bolting is better, however the way my motor sits I can't threw bolt it because of the oil pan being to close to the top of the intake. I am currently running 72mph and have never had a problem with anything coming apart on me. Now that I am putting a Nitrous Kit on her, I feel more HP could raise some concerns. More Horse Power, more water being jammed in the pump, means there could be a problem. Should I be worried, should I just leave it the way it is, or should I pull everything apart and reset the whole damn setup????? By the way it will only be a 100 shot of Nos, creeping up on the backside of 80mph. Thanks in advance.
    OverKill

  2. #2
    Jetaholic
    Question is about Loader and intake. My intake in not threw bolted just threaded to hold on the loader. Now I know threw bolting is better, however the way my motor sits I can't threw bolt it because of the oil pan being to close to the top of the intake. I am currently running 72mph and have never had a problem with anything coming apart on me. Now that I am putting a Nitrous Kit on her, I feel more HP could raise some concerns. More Horse Power, more water being jammed in the pump, means there could be a problem. Should I be worried, should I just leave it the way it is, or should I pull everything apart and reset the whole damn setup????? By the way it will only be a 100 shot of Nos, creeping up on the backside of 80mph. Thanks in advance.
    OverKill
    You gotta figure in the increased amount of force applied to those bolts from a loader vs. a rock grate. Water just passes right through a rock grate so the stock way of bolting those on is fine. However, with a loader, the incoming water charge will be much greater which applies more force to those bolts. That on top of the fact that if you have your loader come loose you're seriously focked, justify the need for thru-bolting the loader.
    When you thru bolt it, if you were to cut the remaining ends of the bolts off will the nuts clear the oil pan? What is the distance between the bottom of the pan and the top of the intake? Do you have any pics of it that you can post?

  3. #3
    W.O.T
    I had to pull my motor to get grade 8 bolts through the intake. My oil pan barely clears the bolt heads. I ran the stock screws one day at the lake and they wouldnt stay tight with red lock-tight. Do as much as you can to be safe.

  4. #4
    craig moss
    can you shim the engine up I dont know how long the drive shaft is a half inch should not kill you or mark the pan and heat and beat ben there done that :devil:

  5. #5
    Wazoo
    You only need a 1/2" to get a nut on it. Be safe! Figure it out!!!:idea: Oil pan or shims. What ever it takes. Think of the time and expense if it gets loose and gets into the impeller at WOT. Not worth the gamble!!!! There is a reason we put lock nuts on the loader. Post some pics and maybe we can give you a easy fix.

  6. #6
    Jetaholic
    You only need a 1/2" to get a nut...
    :idea:

  7. #7
    cave
    Awe just take a hammer to the pan Overkill Call it custom nut space...
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    .. Just Kidding Do it right get it tight. Should be a good summer in 08

  8. #8
    396_WAYS_TO_SPIT
    Drill em through and put a few nuts on them.......

  9. #9
    Member
    Join Date
    Apr 2010
    Location
    Vacaville, CA
    Posts
    80
    I've got a 502 sitting above my intake bolts. My oil pan had a hole in it! I bought a piece of sheet steel to place between my oil pan and intake . The vibration from drilling caused the plate to move...
    Where's this oil coming from?
    I drilled, added SS thread kits (helicoil) installed the 5/16" screws and jam nuts. They're slimmer than regular nuts. Hacked off the rest of the bolt, welded the hole in my oil pan and splashed the same day.
    Good luck.

  10. #10
    BrendellaJet
    If you are running a rail kit I would shim it. If not, switch over to a rail kit and shim it.
    With the increase in power though, I'd be just as concerned about your driveline. I think the 1310 driveline is good to about 500 hp, sounds like you're going to exceed that either now or later(cuz a little hp always leads to a little more) After that you want a 1350 series.
    When I had my 1350 driveline made(ocdriveline), they made it as short as possible with what parts they were able to find in their catalogs. This necessitated moving my engine forward 2 inches(1350 series was longer than the original 1310 set up) where my intake bolts (through hull pieces) needed Jam nuts on the top side to give me enough clearance. I shimmed too just for peace of mind)Fortunately this didn't cause a problem on my interior as I was able to open up the seat base for the back seat and allow my direct drive alternator to slide through.

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