Reply With Quoteyou have got to be kidding, not one person has any advice..or other input??
Thanks anyway, solved the delema. Thanks B&D Marine
I am still one of the few faithful members. Building a new motor for my 271 Formula. 502bbc .030 over, SRP 8.75:1 flat top pistons. The motor has a side mounted Whipple Charger with the piggy-back computer. I am now starting to put things back together, like to get a little more out of it. Looking for a more aggressive camshaft. Also would like to eliminate the piggy-back Whipple computer (if possible) and re-program the mefi3 computer. If doable how would the auxilery injectors fire, and how would they be wired into the stock harness? Another question, could the mefi know when to recognise boost?
Just looking to simplify the wiring, because if the aux. fuel pump dies it will lean the motor, and after completly building a new mill, I would rather not cook it.
I know the 502 mpi's are built to give the motor a certain amount of fuel in relation to the opening of the throttle body, and adding a cam will increase air, not fuel. So computer needs to be re calabrated.
This needs to be reliable also...I dont want to spend the summer with the engine hatch open. I have heard horror stories when it comes to reflashing computers. So I am trying to keep it simple, and neat.
N/A motors are pretty cut and dry, efi blown motors are a whole new venture. I know electronics are great when they work!!
As always, thanks for reading. Hot Rod
you have got to be kidding, not one person has any advice..or other input??
Thanks anyway, solved the delema. Thanks B&D Marine
Last year I can here all the time looking for advice on blower motors. I have a 540 with an 8-71 and I wanted to learn everything I could but this site seemed to dissappear over the winter or something so I stopped looking here.
I know what you say about the newbies and the old guys haveing to re- establish their credibilty over and over again. I hung around the corvette forums alot, introduced alot of new technology but got tired of the kids and stopped posting. I just drop in every week or two to see what's new over their but again have totally stopped replying.
Pocket: its not that I didn't have input, I just think that you will be better off in the long run with an aftermarket computer and I got the impression that you want to stay with what you have... more info? You will spend more tricking the stock efi to do some of what you want rather than doing the aftermarket computer. and as for hot air, turbos, prochargers, whipples, etc, are all welcome here, at least as far as I am concerned. I have run all of them, but a roots is my favorite, its plenty fast and a docile way to do it. I PREFER draw through carbs or EFI (after market and waaaay tunable). I have a bird that I am setting up to run on my 14-71 in the 25. but the current carbs idle and run flawlessly....... TIMINATOR
Timm, I didn't answer the "pocketchange" guy because he seemed to be going in a direction that I won't go. Removing and replacing the merc EFI controler, for his application, is what I would do. I like the roots stuff but I'm starting to put parts on the shelf for a turbo motor. I've worked with Doug Engle on cams I have used in the past. I want to hear what everyone else is using and at what power levels. I want to try hydralic roller cams in Chevy BB motors. as in the past, I will be using a billet 2000 CFM throttle body and dry charge intake manifold. I'll be fabricating my intercooler and exhaust system. I have some Turbonetics T-60's and 2"waste gates from another project. These blowers are efficient but will not support a motor (at a high level) over 500", so I'll be staying 'small' in the block. I'm just looking for actual cam specs for turbos that are currently working for people here. Thanks.
I prefer solid rollers in any blown app. because the cylinder pressure at exhaust opening is even higher than unblown and contributes to bleed-down/collapse. That hurts the power more than normal because it tends to reduce the exhaust effective duration and lift, and on a blown deal thats exactly what you don't want. On any blower BBC deal over 6-8 lbs we run 7/16" pushrods on the exhaust to prevent lift/duration loss there too. Call the guys at the pushrod companies! We have seen some decent power gains on blown deals with the bigger pushrods. We usually run 3/8" on the intakes and mill the exhaust slot for the bigger exhaust p-rod, that also allows us to position the rockers closer to an ideal position on both valves. NOTE to pocket change: mebbie its not that no-one wanted to help, just we couldn't wrap our heads around what you were going to do and didn't want to get involved. If you decide to go a different direction then you will most likely get lots of help. What we need here is not another s--t-storm like the last deleted blower deal! TIMINATOR
I would love to post, but there's 6" of snow & I'm paying boat payments + storage. It's depressing.
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