More Questions!

[Jungle Boy]

Cantrip, good advise. Totally unrelated, but what kind of camera is that. It takes better photos that the one I have here at work and was planning to buy one for my self.

[73SangerSuperJet]

Hey cantrip, thank you for such in depth responce! All I did was mess with the idle mixture screws, so can I get away with just setting these again? There are 2 of them, so which do I do first? Do I lean it out (tighten) until its rough, then come out 1/2 a turn? or go rich first? And I am supposed to conn one of my buddies into standing behind a BBC with open headers to adjust timing at 3000 R's? That will be fun! I have the timing marks on the dampner, and the little thing that sticks out for reference on the timing cover, but I don't think it goes to 30! Is that supposed to be 30 degrees past 10 degrees BTC? I am sorry I am having so much trouble with this, but I really do appreciate it, and if I can ever help anyone, I will.

[Hal]

Check this out.
http://centuryperformance.com/timing.htm

[Cantrip]

Jungle Boy, the camera is a Olympus Camedia C-700 Ultra Zoom, its a 10x zoom and 2.1 mega pixels but the lenz is great, better than most non-professional digital cameras I have seen.
Now 73SSJ, you want to check the levels of your floats first, that is pretty important, what you should actually do is pull out those needle and seat valves completley and take a peek at them, they go bad all the time, and if you have anything stuck in them it can ruin your whole day, and they usually don't free themselves up. The other day I went out wakeboarding and my boat kept dying at idle, I looked in the carb and the secondaries were FLOODING gas into the motor at idle and when the engine was off!! Pulled out the needle and seat valve and sure as hell, there was a small piece of debris on there. I took that debris out and replaced the needle and seat, adjusted the level and the boat ran perfect the rest of the day. So do those first, then adjust those little idle mixture screws. Let me know if you don't understand what I am trying to explain, I know it seems tough to understand, it was for me, I had to see it get done before I understood. And as far as the timing goes, yes, you will have to con one of your friends into turning the dist. while it is revved. When its idling though, you want to get it 10-14 before top dead center, which should be to the left of the 0 on the dampener, at 3000 rpms, as long as everything works ok, it should go to 28 or so on its own. So make sure on the dampener you see what side is Before Top Dead Center, it might say BTC and the other side will say ATC, make sure its 10-14 BTC. Let us know what happens but do the floats first on the carb then the idle, its quite easy.
[ February 09, 2003, 06:25 PM: Message edited by: Cantrip ]

[jeffro]

damn -
that is one FINE garden cart ! eek!
gotta get me one of those...
later

[73SangerSuperJet]

Thanks cantrip. Yah, when I first put the BBC in, first trip out dirt got caught in the needle and gas pored out all over the place. I had to clean it out and rebuilt part of the carb, and I now have a beefy inline filter (you can probably see it in some of the pics). I will try to mess with it some time this week (Gotta buy a timing light)
Thanks,
Louis

[Chris J]

Louis,
When you go looking for a timing light spend a few buck and get one with adjustable advance. This will allow you to check timing at WFO. Once you do any mods to a motor you can forget about stock timing. Focus on full advance timing which should be in by 3200rmp. No tach don't worry, just keep reving until the advance stops. Adjust knob on timing light until the timing mark is at Zero. read the number off the knob and thats what you have at full advance. If after setting full advance timing you have idle problems you need to adjust the amount of mechanical advance in the distributer and readjust full advance. Eventually you'll get both end timed. Full advance timing should be between 32-38, every motors different but it should run OK in this range. If it doesn't focus on the carb.

[jstwkd]

73 SangerSuperJet
Where are you located?I work in Santa Rosa.

[73SangerSuperJet]

Hey Jstwkd, I live in Santa Rosa (I own a computer consulting business), and I keep my boat at my dads house in windsor (about 5-10 mins north of SR).
Thanks,
Louis

[78Eliminator]

If your boat idles, then you're fine for now. The popping at 2500-3k has nothing to do with your idle mixture since the idle circuits aren't used at that range. The mixture srews on your metering blocks are for idling only. Come out 1.5 turns on each of you want a base point, then adjust the idle with the buttreflys. You sound lean as hell. Your engine is probably starving. I would check your float levels just like everyone here is telling you. Might not hurt to do a rebuild or at least verify the needle/seat float funtionality. How old is your fuel? Might there be water in it?
Be careful with your lean condition. If you get it up to a higher RPM level, stab it for a few seconds, then cut the throttle and shut her down, do a plug reading and see if you might need to up jet. Let us know what happens....