Electrical Question

[HypoLuxa]

Hello Everyone,
I am new here(mostly lurking). I have a 1973 Avenger w/ a 455 Olds. I recently replaced the alternator, and I don't think I am getting a charge back to the battery. I was wondering if I have the boat ideling, and I disconnect the positive terminal on the battery, It should stay running from current from the alternator to the coil, right?
Doug

[Floored]

are you running a single wire alternator, an internally regulated alt, or a standard delco with a voltage regulator? just check battery voltage with engine off then start it and voltage should increase, even if just temporarily,to 13-14.5 until battery is charged. the disconnect method isn't a tell all and can hurt other electrical parts. in 1973 they were mostly using , I believe, external voltage regulators and you may need to replace it also unless it has been upgraded somewhere down the line.

[AZKC]

Yep, also put a volt meter on the battery with everything hooked up normal, see what kind of volts are going to the battery when the boats running.
KC

[Moneypitt]

The battery cable test does not work with an alternator!!!! An alternator MUST be excited, batt voltage in, charge amps out..... If it were a generator, the cable test would work, but not for the alternator.. The best, and only tests are gauges, volts and/or amps. Do the plug in spades run with the shaft,(external) or across, (integral), unless it's been changed, in 73 it was probably externally regulated, but an easy switch to a GM integral......Moneypitt

[HypoLuxa]

Thanks for the replys. It is a standard Delco, and I have an Ampmeter that will show a draw when cranking, but does not show a positive charge when running.
Doug

[Floored]

use a voltmeter, at battery to check, you will get a more accurate read for testing than reading your amp guage.

[Blown 472]

HypoLuxa:
Thanks for the replys. It is a standard Delco, and I have an Ampmeter that will show a draw when cranking, but does not show a positive charge when running.
Doug Who is tha girl at ***boat pics??

[THE BOSTON SIDEWINDER]

I JUST DID THIS TEST ON MY BOAT THE OTHER DAY. YOU SHOULD GET AT LEAST 2 VOLTS OR SO MORE AT THE BATTERY POSTS WITH YOUR VOLTMETER ON 'DC VOLTS' WHEN THE ENGINE IS RUNNING, COMPARED TO WHEN THE ENGINE IS OFF. IF THE BATTERY IS DEAD THE ENGINE ONLY RUNS ONLY FOR A MINUTE. SOMETIMES ALTERNATORS ONLY PRODUCE MORE VOLTAGE A LITTLE ABOVE IDLE RPM. CHECK FOR ANY GREEN CANCER ON/IN THE WIRING! THIS PUTS RESISTANCE SOOO HIGH THE VOLTAGE AND CURRENT CAN DROP TO NIL. HOW IS THE V-BELT, ANY SLIPPAGE CAN TRANSLATE TO A DEAD BATTERY. HAVE YOU CHARGED AND THEN LOAD TESTED THE BATTERY? IF YOU DON'T HAVE A LOAD TESTER A LOCAL PARTS STORE SHOULD BE ABLE TO TEST IT(AND THE ALTERNATOR FOR THAT MATTER) FOR YOU FOR NADA. ONE LAST THOUGHT, IF THE VOLTAGE CHECK AT THE BATTERY SHOWS NO CHANGE, GO RIGHT TO THE OUTPUT LUG ON THE ALTERNATOR AND SEE WHAT VOLTAGE THAT SHOWS. GOOD LUCK..BILL
PS USE RUBBER HANDLED TOOLS, USUALLY YOU WILL GET A HELL OF A TINGLE IF YOU DON'T!

[Jetmugg]

It is not a good idea to pull the battery cable off while the alternator is turning. This has a tendency to fry the diodes in GM alternators.
Use a voltmeter to check the output.
Steve.

[Taylor LP]

And it's an even worse idea to do it on a Ford alternator. For some reason the output voltage of a Ford alternator can rise well over 80 volts or even higher within a split second of removing the battery terminal.
Instant death for ignition modules and stereos.