Page 1 of 3 123 LastLast
Results 1 to 10 of 23

Thread: ARP install

  1. #1
    Schiada76
    On head stud installation does the beveled relief on the washer go against the nut or the head?
    I asked ARP before and can't remember what they recommended.
    Also do you just install the studs hand tight?

  2. #2
    steelcomp
    On head stud installation does the beveled relief on the washer go against the nut or the head?
    I asked ARP before and can't remember what they recommended.
    Also do you just install the studs hand tight?
    The beveled relief is there for using the washer on a bolt, where the bevel would go against the head of the bolt. For studs, it dosen't matter. Hand tight is all that's necessary, and make sure you use thread sealant for any holes that are open to water jackets. Also, if you want the full torque value, put an old head gasket on the motor and tighten / loosen-cycle the nuts at least 5 times with the ARP lube. The surfaces of the nut and washer will "mate", and there will be less friction to overcome with torque, giving more accurae readings. It takes a little while, but there's considerably more clamping force when done right.

  3. #3
    Schiada76

    Everyone I talk to (inc ARP) has different advice on the washer chamfer.
    The guy that did the short block told me the opposite. Good thing they don't have chamfered washers with their stud kits anymore. I didn't look before I asked.
    I know ARP used to recomend five cycles on the torque sequence but now they recommend three.
    I did the torque cycle with the new gaskets, could that cause a problem????
    Thanks for the reply

  4. #4
    Infomaniac
    I always install the bevel up. And always install the nut where you can read ARP. With the washer bevel up the flat side is down against the part and the bevel would be against the bolt if applicable.
    Not only that, I have a specific "routine" that I use when assembling an engine and do not deviate from that. EVER
    Torque cycles are torque cycles regardless of gasket or not. It is basically the stretch of the fastener. IMHO

  5. #5
    Schiada76
    I did make sure the ARP stamp was up.
    Info, Why don't you use moly lube on roller rockers?

  6. #6
    Infomaniac
    I did make sure the ARP stamp was up.
    Info, Why don't you use moly lube on roller rockers?
    Where on roller rockers?
    I soak them in solvent to get the preservative out. Then soak them in oil

  7. #7
    396_WAYS_TO_SPIT
    I install mine like fiat does
    Oh and I soak my rockers in coorslight

  8. #8
    GofastRacer
    The beveled relief is there for using the washer on a bolt, where the bevel would go against the head of the bolt. For studs, it dosen't matter. Hand tight is all that's necessary, and make sure you use thread sealant for any holes that are open to water jackets. Also, if you want the full torque value, put an old head gasket on the motor and tighten / loosen-cycle the nuts at least 5 times with the ARP lube. The surfaces of the nut and washer will "mate", and there will be less friction to overcome with torque, giving more accurae readings. It takes a little while, but there's considerably more clamping force when done right.
    Not trying to be a smartass here but the bevel on the washer is not because it's for use on bolts, the bevel is there because they are stamped and not flat ground washers, and you always put the flat side down weather it's bolts or studs!..

  9. #9
    GofastRacer
    I did make sure the ARP stamp was up.
    Info, Why don't you use moly lube on roller rockers?
    Like Info said, also don't put moly on the pushrod tips it plugs up the hole in the pushrod and takes too long for oil to get up to the top!..

  10. #10
    steelcomp
    Beveled washers, if we're talking about the same thing where the bevel is on the ID, (typically 45* and very obvious) are made for close tolerance, high strength bolts. Rod bolts are a good example. The bevel is there so as not to let the edge of the washer dig into the head-to-shank fillet radius of the bolt, and should ALWAYS go toward the head of the bolt. This is a critical area in the strength of the bolt, where the bolt head, (as in AN bolts) has a true bearing surface, and the radius is usually cold formed, and relatively large. A regular washer, or the proper washer upside down, would cut into this radius causing a sterss riser, and compromising the bolt.
    Beveled washers aren't necessary on a stud with a nut, since there's no fillet radius to worry about.
    The high-strength washers supplied with the stud kits are supposed to be parallel ground and hardened, or equivalent to, and it shouldn'e matter which side is up, but... if you look closely, the outside (and inside) edges definately have a taper (not a bevel), since these washers are stamped. This makes one side of the washer a little larger in dia. than the other side, and I always like to put the larger dia. against the part, and let the nut bear against the smaller dia. It's minimal, but I feel you're getting just that much more load distribution out of the washer, and the smaller dia. is still larger than the base of the nut, so that's not an issue. It's just a small detail, but none the less.
    You can torque anad re-torque new head gaskets, but I like to do all this break-in in the mock-up mode, and try and save the new gaskets for final assy. 5 times, three times, I don't know. I go 5, just because that's what I was tought.
    I always put moly on new parts that are going to be under high pressure and prone to galling like, and especially push rod tips. You'd have to pack the pushrod with moly to cause a problem with oil not getting through. This would be, IMO, sloppy assy. work, as nothing more than a film thickness is necessary. It's also a waste of moly, and it only ends up in the filter. A little acid brush, and just a dab in the right places is all that's necessary. Once the parts have run, then they can be re-assembled with assy lube, but I still like to put moly on push rod tips. That first few cranks before it starts are killers, even after priming the oil system. Moly on any fastener that gets torqued. Threads, under the head, and both sides of the washer. Again, just a film thickness is all that's necessary.

Page 1 of 3 123 LastLast

Similar Threads

  1. MSD install
    By jetboat in forum Jet Boats
    Replies: 4
    Last Post: 08-20-2007, 05:44 PM
  2. pump install ?
    By bead in forum Jet Boats
    Replies: 13
    Last Post: 06-14-2007, 11:36 AM
  3. Cmi Install On 496
    By ULTRA26 # 1 in forum Gear Heads
    Replies: 18
    Last Post: 09-20-2006, 06:34 PM
  4. CMI Install
    By Pro Max in forum Out Drive
    Replies: 16
    Last Post: 06-29-2006, 11:06 AM
  5. How to install
    By AngryJosh in forum Audio
    Replies: 6
    Last Post: 02-15-2006, 01:37 PM

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •