i am ready to epoxy prime my boat ( see below) my question is am i better using dp401lf or dp402lf catalyst. the 402 is fast drying but one ppg sheet i have said it might not be flexible but the slower drying 401 is. because it is such a large surface am i better using the slower 401 anyways? any help would be great.
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Wow! It's looking good.
Seeing your boat makes me glad I have a 16 foot V hull. I whined when I went through a couple of gallons of Imron.
I've never used PPG products so I have no experience I can share. I just replied because I respect the work you've done and have left to do.
-- Tom
Use the slower drying catalyst ...You would never get around something that big and still have any overspray melt in with the 402.
The idea is....even if you are gonna be sanding... to lay the primer,or topcoats for that matter as smoothly as possible .
If you have overspray...say in the middle of the deck from where your coats overlap and the first coats have already dried ...then it will be grainy and much tougher to sand ...The fast catalyst is only used on very small parts and in very cold shop temps
Dang...........that is a large surface area to spray. So which color did you settle on...........the hot pink, or neon green?
Yea, what JBB said. I think the faster hardener does not require an induction period. The only other advantage. You can use it as a sealer by reducing it too. I have done it with good results. Ratios for this can be aquired at the ppg store.
todays progress
, the center has black epoxy primer and the front and back white because i need to spray silver base in the front for the flames and the back for the neg flames before i spray the entire boat boat in black polly. the silver covers white muche better than the black. any input or ideas on how to help me with this huge project please let me know.
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First,..I would use ,over those sanded stripes either (A)high build urethane primer..PPG ncp 250 is the one I like ...Or an even cheaper alternative (B)...Use Slick Sand Polyester based hi build primer It is the same as their Feather Fill but is VOC compliant ..They both work great.....It goes on heavy and is a bitch to sand ...but NOTHING shows thru it ....It is made by Evercoat I would spray 3 0r 4 heavy coats ...block it with 320 and be on my way...as for color hiding ...I use PPG NCP 2004 sealer ...it comes in grey white and black....Always use catalyzed stuff....I think you are confusing epoxy primers with High build filling primers....good luck...Jbb
Jbb, the entire deck was done with ppg npc 250 high build anti corrosive primer. As for the lower part of the boat we re-da-ed with 220 feathered all striped and used epoxy primer. Look at pictures nothing shows through. We got a bit (very small amount) of orange peal in the epoxy primer on the lower sides of the boat but we will block it with 400 or 600 before we spray the base. The plan is to then spray dbu 500 "base clear" over the silver this will allow us to lay the fine line tape for the flames, tape them in, then spray black base back over everything. We were a little worried if we used one coat of "real" clear coat over the silver even if we wet sanded it there was still a chance of some lifting when we sprayed the black base back over all the area that is silver but not covered by the tapped flames. Make any sense? Any input would be great.
I have had very good luck taping directly over dbu base .....that is not the case if using dbc.I agree, a coat or two of an intercoat clear like dbu 500 is cheap insurance...the thing to remember about PPG products when spraying is to give sufficient flash off time ...I always give a little extra....Gloss dieback is common for those who rush.....
I would have probably sprayed the flame licks last instead of back taping them ...I assume this was due to fear of poor coverage....In any rate either way will work fine...
Ps there are some very good covering silvers on the market....One of the best I have seen is House of Kolors Orion Silver...
jbb, you have a pm
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