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Thread: olds oiling fix

  1. #21
    sleekcraft76
    got some numbers on the oil clearance numbers you use ? it shure would be very helpfull!

  2. #22
    Sleek26
    Originally posted by 396_WAYS_TO_SPIT
    Oh my god, not another olds thread(j/k) Listen to all of these guys here. We've all been through the olds deal.
    This the recipe for my olds.
    balance
    align hone
    arp bolts (mains and rods)
    standard volume oil pump(with spring stretch)
    oil restricted push rods
    10qt oilpan
    timing @30 degrees
    oiling clearanes-a must!!!!!
    and KEEP IT UNDER 5000RPM'S
    Thats what I run and she still holds together strong
    396..........................Spit
    Maybe everybody is just assuming it is a given, but:
    A.

  3. #23
    Sleek26
    Originally posted by 396_WAYS_TO_SPIT
    Oh my god, not another olds thread(j/k) Listen to all of these guys here. We've all been through the olds deal.
    This the recipe for my olds.
    balance
    align hone
    arp bolts (mains and rods)
    standard volume oil pump(with spring stretch)
    oil restricted push rods
    10qt oilpan
    timing @30 degrees
    oiling clearanes-a must!!!!!
    and KEEP IT UNDER 5000RPM'S
    Thats what I run and she still holds together strong
    396..........................Spit
    In addition to the above. Maybe everybody is just assuming it is a given, but:
    A. The crank should be cross drilled, chamfered, and hardened (tufftrided or whatever is the latest greatest methode in your opinion). As someone mentioned Synthetic oil can't hurt. Mines been runnin great for 4 years.

  4. #24
    396_WAYS_TO_SPIT
    RODS- .020-0.30
    MAINS- .025-.035

  5. #25
    CrdStang
    396_WAYS_TO_SPIT
    Uh, dude, aren't you missing some zeros there? thirty thou (.030") of clearance is what you call "rod knock". As for 3 tenths of an inch (.30), well thats likely to have some side effects...odd new crankcase vents and such..
    Just kidding man, I know they were typos. Gotta watch 'em, someone who hasn't built an engine before might not know better.
    Mike

  6. #26
    Taylorman
    Instead of oil restricted push rods like many have mentioned. I used restrictors in the lifter bores. You have to drill and tap them which takes a couple hours but they are alot cheaper.

  7. #27
    malcolm
    I've heard that restricting hydraulic lifters was not a good idea, but it's the way to go if your running solids.
    If I had my way, I wouldn't restrict anything and I'd have 1" stainless lines going from heads to pan.

  8. #28
    Taylorman
    1", good god thats huge. I used 1/2 stainless tubing on mine.

  9. #29
    Mark Sims
    If you use the restricters in #2,3,4 main saddles you dont restrict oil to the lifters. I primed my motor with a drill before startup and it gets tons of oil up top for springs and valves and I use restricted push rods. After 7 years I tore it down and everything is cool inside. 8qt pan, HV pump, cross drill the crank and modify the main bearings. Clearances are critical for an olds to live.

  10. #30
    sleekcraft76
    mark , if you use restrictors in #234 and a hv oil pump can i get by with out using restricted push rods ?

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