Pulled the heads and drained the oil... doesnt look good to me.

[shaun]

Ok, i took everybodys advice and drained the oil and pulled the heads and here's what i found. While draining the oil i noticed weird small dots on the top of the oil, 5-10 minutes later there was a white glaze hovering the top, another 5-10 minutes later it was gone. My guess is thats the moisture?
The first sign i saw of rust was when i pulled the valve covers. There was a small amount but it had me worried, after pulling the heads i found that the cyliders looked clean except about 1/4 of a inch of the top of each cylinder looked to have rust. I have yet to pull the oil pad and take a look down there but that will have to be another day. What do you guys think? I'm thinking i should disassemble the rest of the bottom end and get everything diped/checked. Below are a couple pics, more pics can be would at from the link below.
http://www.reitanfamily.com/gallery/MotorDisassemble
http://www.reitanfamily.com/albums/M...e/IM000781.jpg
http://www.reitanfamily.com/albums/M...e/IM000788.jpg
http://www.reitanfamily.com/albums/M...e/IM000783.jpg
What do you guys think?

[quiet riot]

Shaun, if you're this far it wouldn't hurt to take it the rest of the way down and have it cleaned and checked out. I don't know the begginning of the story or what your plans are for the set up so that will affect what you do.
Just for a side note, that rust may not be all that bad. I've taken a couple motors that were completed siezed from rust (one sat uncovered at the coast for 7 years) and just pulled the heads, cleaned out the bulk of the rust (a little steel wool or scotchbrite) and soaked cylinders/pistons with wd-40 and got the rotating assy to break free. Then I oiled/flushed cylinders and cleaned the heads up, rebuilt carbs, threw it back together and it worked well for many seasons. If the rest of the cyl bores look ok it might be an option.
If this is a perf appl and/or you're willing/wanting to go into it anyways, then definately take it down while you have it this far. If you want to just get it on the water and have a good time, you might be surprised how a couple gaskets and oil changes/break in might get you by. I did this to a boat when going to school and I wanted to get on the water and ski and that boat (friend of mine) still is using it 10 years later. A couple of the other times were just to get customers by that couldn't afford the motor rebuild at a marina I worked at in college.
.02,
jd

[Rexone]

I agree with QR, the rust is likely not serious at this point but it's half apart. Take it down, inspect everything and clean it up, at the very least hone the cylinders and put fresh rings (assuming size is good). I'd hot tank the block to get all the rust possible out and install fresh brass freeze plugs on reassembly. Hot tanking also kills the cam bearings so remove them prior to HT. Most machine shops that hot tank can r&r cam bearings for you as it requires a special tool (do not consult Hoss for advice on cam bearing installation). As long as its apart put bearings in it, check the heads and block for flatness, maybe a valve job depending on the time on it. At the very least I'd disassemble the heads and check the valves and seats for rust damage give we have a known rust/water issue in the cylinders. I'm assuming you didn't do a leak down before tear down so we're kind of flying in the dark here now. That is what I'd do for a trouble free future given what I know and see with your motor.
By the looks of your headers in the other post that's likely where alot of the rust came from you see in the cylinders. Make sure your weep holes are not clogged up in the bends in those headers (they drain water out when sitting). Also make sure you're not injecting too much water into the headers at low speed causing reversion to suck it into the cylinders.

[460rogers]

Howdy Shaun
From the pics looks to me like a blown head gasket( I are not an expert).
I would also suggest you address the lean/rich issue( I are not an expert)but it appears in your pics that two cyls rich ,two cyls very lean.mainly pic IM000799.
Some one please correct me if I am wrong(never used ebrock tunnel rams).
I would as suggested finish taking it apart and having it vatted and checked.DITTO on the brass freeze plugs.
WE BE COOL !! The King Said So!!

[058]

Damn....Ya think you could make the pictures any bigger?

[shaun]

Here's the first story for those who want to look at it.
http://www.***boat.com/forums/showth...threadid=38424
As for the rust, the headers where never on this motor. This motor was in/for my dads dulley and probably has a total of 20minutes on it. But it has been sitting for 2-3 years.
I'm just going to tear is down all the way, get it inspected,diped i might as well.
Another Q, why brash freeze plugs? my dad used to run rubber ones because we used to blow out normal plugs? I'm assuming this is because we dont have a regulator to regulate the water presure thru the motor? I read some where that water presure can get up to 200PSI, is this true?
Sorry dialup people... i've been on huge internet connections (cable, ds3's, oc3's, oc12's) for so long that i forgot how slow these can load for you.

[Dave C]

probably not a big deal.
Have it checked for cracks before you do anything.
then clean it, hot tank and slap it back together and be on your way.

[Dave C]

BTW, you can get pressure regulators for a jet boats...