I might be wrong but here`s what I found out or what I think happened.
I rebuilt my old Dominator pump and it made more pressure, made the intake gasket fail. After we installed the new Aggressor Pump I still had the same problem with intake gasket failure. I would make a few passes and "boom" there was water in my oil.
Then we installed the new blower motor, The guy I bought it from told us that we better install a pressure regulator . Duane said, " We are" No more water in the oil. All the proof I needed.
I think, if you have a tight pump you better get one before you pump water in your oil.
I have my old motor in My SJ and it`s never blown the intake gasket, so that tells me I need a pump rebuild in that boat??????
I might be wrong but that`s what I`m thinking.
I'm also considering putting in a pressure reg.
This may be a stupid question (probably is...), but how do you plumb one of these in with your Bassett T-valve? If the the pressure reg keeps the cooling water at a fixed pressure, then how will your T-valve know when to open (it shouldn't see a pressure rise w/ rpm rise, right?...)?
Help a new guy out...
-K-
A regulator or pressure relief will set a maximum pressure. Over that setting, the pressure will remain constant, under that setting, the pressure can still vary.
Bob
Originally posted by Special K
I'm also considering putting in a pressure reg.
This may be a stupid question (probably is...), but how do you plumb one of these in with your Bassett T-valve? If the the pressure reg keeps the cooling water at a fixed pressure, then how will your T-valve know when to open (it shouldn't see a pressure rise w/ rpm rise, right?...)?
Help a new guy out...
-K-
Good question!
I have a Bassett T valve, and it opens right when it should, and closes right when it should. Never had an issue with it because the max output PSI is still high enough to open the T valve when under way.
HBjet
With letting the water just flow thru like that, expecially since the water is always cold, wouldnt that cause a problem with half the motor running cooler than the rest? seams like regulating the preasure and slowing down the flow would help.
Also, a engine was designed to run at a certian temp, running it too low seams like it would/could be a problem.
Originally posted by Shaun
With letting the water just flow thru like that, expecially since the water is always cold, wouldnt that cause a problem with half the motor running cooler than the rest? seams like regulating the preasure and slowing down the flow would help.
Also, a engine was designed to run at a certian temp, running it too low seams like it would/could be a problem.
ill get flamed by the usual folks for chiming in here but....
I dont believe you're doing any harm by running the engine at a colder (say 120-150-degrees) temp.
Every time i've gone to the dyno with a motor, the dyno operator has test it with 180 degree water inlet temp to simulate in-car conditions and then run another test with the water temp lowered to 140-degrees to simulate in-boat conditions. Every time the engine made more power with the lower temperature.
cyclone,
Makes sense to be that it may make more power, motor is running cooler and the air is probably more dense, but i'm more worried about it's longevity (spelling?). Screw those who flame, i want to hear your opinions!
Originally posted by Shaun
cyclone,
Makes sense to be that it may make more power, motor is running cooler and the air is probably more dense, but i'm more worried about it's longevity (spelling?). Screw those who flame, i want to hear your opinions!
i'm of the opinion that the temp gauge in a jet boat with no thermostat is only showing you the lake water temp as it quickly circulates through the engine and is dumped overboard. Actual engine temp is much higher i think.
true, a oil temp guage is probably somthing better to watch.
I'd say install both water and oil temp gages. Water pressure too. Why not know what's happening as opposed to trial and error and guesses?
Sure gages cost money, but what about the cost (and hassle) of replacing gaskets or an entire engine rebuild? Because you guessed on what was happening? And once rebuilt, still more guessing?
"Then we installed the new blower motor, The guy I bought it from told us that we better install a pressure regulator . Duane said, " We are" No more water in the oil. All the proof I needed."
Maybe the proof you needed was full throttle water pressure from a simple gage before you blew those gaskets. Would've saved time and effort.
My thoughts on a pressure regulator. At some power level, depending on your cooling lines, I think a regulator is needed. Below that, a regulator is an unecessary complication subject to failure. My opinion here...I've run both. Hammer hinted on dump line sizing. Some run higher bowl pressures as well as different cooling lines. Your coolant line size (both inlet and exit, and number of lines) does impact block pressure. And you'll see different opinions depending on performance level.
I think the KISS (keep it simple stupid) principle applies. My mild 454 ran well w/o requlator. When I upgraded to 760 hp I put a regulator in thinking I'd over-pressure. Nope. In fact, the regulator I used ran my full throttle pressure a bit low and temp too high. I took it out.
Of course your cooling system and line size may not be same as mine, or others here. Or power level. Or allowable engine pressure. That's why, "it depends." That's why I say, "Put a gage on it and see what's happening."
A mild engine with a loose pump and different coolant supply specs may require something else than a built engine with a tight pump. And if you got weak seals, your max pressure to milkshake will be less than a tight engine. But if you got no gages to measure, who's to know? You got no clues, just quesses.
I also have thoughts on oil coolers. But gotta sign off for now...
jer
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