Originally posted by TIMINATOR
Why would you want to have the grief of a constant flow injection set-up and not the gains from the tuned ram effect? Not to say it can't be setup by someone knowledgable and work well, but again, the individual runner setup will make more power. You tune the ram to make the most HP at the rpm your pump turns. The ram effect is usually good for 25-40+hp and looks way cooler than a tunnelram in my opinion. Me, I'm doing an EFI conversion on a Crower stack injection, and will have a whole lot less than $7000 in it when complete, and that also includes the Super Pro Shot Fogger system too! If anyone is interested I'll post pics, or call or PM me. P.S i'm also doing an EFI- Enderle stack setup on my Northstar powered Track-T roadster.TIMINATOR
The reason hardly anyone but nostagia guys run them anymore is becuse they are so much better than the birdcatcher type that most of us run today. I ran the ram type for years and didn't think they could be beat, but we have found out different. You talk about grief of a constant flow system, I don't see it. We went to Ennis today to tune on our new injected 632 Pontiac powered 97 Olds Cutlass. We had no desire to race, just work on the new fuel system. Well we ended up going bracket racing and went 6 rounds and lost with a .006 red light and ran dead on. That was the only run that we actually legged it out and ran dead on our dial- in, 5.10. it starts easily every time and the only time we use the primer is on a cold start, and runs within .001 every pass.
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As for starting a constant flow, I never liked the idea of a bottle of fuel in someones hands good way to get someone burned. Just put ignition on a seperate toggle, start cranking starter, then when she starts puffin little alky vapor out the zoomies hit ignition and go racin. Never had a problem just remember to close throttle be for you hit mag, don't want to launch the blower.
Shady folks got shady ways
Dan
I agree about the squirt bottle, but notice above that I mention primer. No squirt bottles around our stuff. You know what's weird, as long as I've been arund this stuff, I've never seen anyone start a fire with a squirt bottle, I just never liked the idea.
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I have been thinking which is a dangerous thing. I think in the Crawford catalog I saw what they call a select a jet. It is a in line dial that holds different jets and you turn a dial on top to select dif jets while the motor is running. You could have small ones for idling and low speed and switch it for upper RPM. Has anyone seen this or have any experience with the piece?
I have a buddy that runs one on a Cheyenne tunnelhull BGF. He really likes it.
Originally posted by LUVNLIFE
I have been thinking which is a dangerous thing. I think in the Crawford catalog I saw what they call a select a jet. It is a in line dial that holds different jets and you turn a dial on top to select dif jets while the motor is running. You could have small ones for idling and low speed and switch it for upper RPM. Has anyone seen this or have any experience with the piece?
Those have been around for years. They used to be popular with sprint car guys as they could richen the mixture and cool the motor down when holding under a yellow flag. Idle and part throttle fuel mixture on a constant flow is controlled mainly by the barrell valve setting, not the main jet. With a "dial a jet" as they were most commonly called, you're selecting the main jet by rotating a dial. It's just a quick way of changing the main jet. Changing the main jet is only part of the picture of tuning constant flow, so they really are of little use.
I thought we were talking about the possible grief for a lake boat, not a drag boat with a constant flow injection. I have run Webers with tuned length,Hilborn stacks with tuned length and have seen .3-.5s and 2-4 mph changes with stack length.If tuned length is meaningless why do all the High-perf cars use it? A jet boat is the best scenario use for a tuned length setup, (a constant rpm at wot)at w.o.t. you know the rpm you have and its easy to change the stack length to see what the rpm change is. I'll post the results and pics. TIMINATOR
Originally posted by TIMINATOR
I thought we were talking about the possible grief for a lake boat, not a drag boat with a constant flow injection. I have run Webers with tuned length,Hilborn stacks with tuned length and have seen .3-.5s and 2-4 mph changes with stack length.If tuned length is meaningless why do all the High-perf cars use it? A jet boat is the best scenario use for a tuned length setup, (a constant rpm at wot)at w.o.t. you know the rpm you have and its easy to change the stack length to see what the rpm change is. I'll post the results and pics. TIMINATOR
It doesn't matter to me what you or anyone else runs. If it works for you, great. Most anyone on here who knows me can verify the number of boats I tune and the increasing number of drag cars I'm involved with. I'm at the drag strip 2 or 3 times a week and have only missed 2 SDBA boat race in over 15 years. The point of all this is that I can probably count on both hands the number of ram tube injection setups I've seen running on anything but nostalgia stuff for the past several years. I've run them myself up until about 18 years ago. For me and about 50 drag boats and drag cars I work on, the birdcatcher and Ron's(Toilet) work best for us. Nothing personal...........
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