Why not run both.....At that point you never have to put it on "ALL" ... Put it on 2 to run the stereo, and switch it over to 1 to start it and run charging all your batteries......
Or you could just save your money and use your switch
Anyone running one for a multiple battery setup? I just used a big ass 1 wire alternator on the last boat, but thinking that the isolator would be a good idea, that way the 'accessory' batts would only power the stereo, and the starter batt would never get drained?
Or should I save the money, and just use the 2 way battery switch on the boat?????
Why not run both.....At that point you never have to put it on "ALL" ... Put it on 2 to run the stereo, and switch it over to 1 to start it and run charging all your batteries......
Or you could just save your money and use your switch
Problem is, the batt switch is tucked away under one of the side panels, kind of hard to get to, and I can't see it! Difficult to see whether it's on 1, 2 all or off....
Thought about running a seperate on/off switch only to the tunes off the 2 aux batt's and the isolator. That way, when my drunk ass forgets to switch it, no biggie!
Originally posted by Interceptor454
Problem is, the batt switch is tucked away under one of the side panels, kind of hard to get to, and I can't see it! Difficult to see whether it's on 1, 2 all or off....
Thought about running a seperate on/off switch only to the tunes off the 2 aux batt's and the isolator. That way, when my drunk ass forgets to switch it, no biggie!
You can move that switch...if you want.
I'm running a single 100AMP alternator with two stereo batteries and one starting battery- two Perko switches. Even when I'm drunk, I can control which batteries get used for what.
The tough part for you is that if you want to truely isolate the stereo batteries, and use one alternator, you need a diode somewhere...or a solenoid isolator, like the PAC 200 (or 201).
http://hellroaring.com/marine.htm
http://deeptronics.com/catalog/produ...oducts_id/1111
http://www.lightningaudio.com/2004/p....asp?catID=296
Thanks HH. Decided to run the isolator, and a seperate on/off switch for the system The boat is stored w/no elec available to keep a trickle on 'em so the alternator will be called into duty to boost 'em back up. The A/O, with that swinging back seat, makes it a little difficult to run that switch, unless you want it to be seen, which I don't. The cool thing about the isolator, it'll be automatic, and I won't ever run the starter batt down with the tunes!:wink:
Go with the Battery isolater. In our display trucks, we run a 5 way isolator. We have run them this way for years. With little to no problems.
I am going to put one in my boat that I bought used from a guy last year. It currently has a Cole-Hersey battery switch on it. Man does it suck, Its under the engine hatch, Like some of the other guys stated never remember if its on 1 or 2 or both!
With the Isolator, the Altenator is charging all the batteries at the same time, & keeps the starter battery from beiing drained by the stereo system batteries.
I should know, Starter battery = 1 group 27 battery.
Stero system = 5 group 27 batteries.
Another cool thing about the 5 way Isolators are that they can take 2 diffrent charging sources. I.E The Altenator, & if equipped a genorator input. I have heard that some people have small genorators for the stero systems, if this is the case, this is the way to go.
JT, What's the make and model of the Iso you use? Curious to know if it's a Diode, or solenoid type... One exibits voltage drop when used....
Roz, the brand we use on our trucks are shurepower. We have used them in our Tool Trucks for 19years I have been around.
Roz they are a diode type of isolater, & yes you do get a 1 voltage drop across them , from input to output.
My good friends owns an altenator shop, we use a remote sensing wire from the alt, to the battery, this way the alt puts out a little more to compensate for this drop, & this way the battery is getting 14.2 volts to properly charge its self back up.
Hope this helps.
Let me in on any trade secrets you have.
In tool trucks, we use 2ea 12volt batteries hooked up parallel to start the diesel engine
2ea 6volt deep cycle hooked up in series to run the 12 volt florecent lighting.
1ea 12 volt deep cycle battery to run thru an inverter to run the computer, printer DVD, & LCD monitor in the truck. Typically run a 140amp alt to run all.
Some trucks run a RV Genorator also to run AC & help recharge the batteries.
Originally posted by Just Tool'n
My good friends owns an altenator shop, we use a remote sensing wire from the alt, to the battery, this way the alt puts out a little more to compensate for this drop, & this way the battery is getting 14.2 volts to properly charge its self back up.
Sounds like a good dealio for the boat or RV!
How does the trigger work?
So, how do you handle different battery banks at varying voltages? If you tie all the sense wires together, you have defeated the purpose of the isolator. Otherwise, you may be overcharging the batteries that are less discharged.
cruzer