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Thread: AGGRESSOR (OOTB) SS pics for HBjet

  1. #31
    HavasuDreamin'
    Just out of curiosity for someone who doesn't know, what are the pros/cons of a mag bronze impeller vs. a stainless?

  2. #32
    OMEGA_BUBBLE_JET
    Originally posted by HavasuDreamin'
    Just out of curiosity for someone who doesn't know, what are the pros/cons of a mag bronze impeller vs. a stainless?
    mag bronze is cheaper than stainless and stronger than aluminum. It bridges the gap between stock aluminum impellers and race stainless impellers.
    Omega

  3. #33
    TexasJet
    The reason you get to see a stainless impeller is because Brian, the guy that works with Duane, broke a mag bronze. Seems he got a little unexpected air time and overreved his bad ass bown tunnel hull. He decided to go to stainless and thats the impeller we are looking at.

  4. #34
    MudPumper
    I was told that one of the reasons the stainless impellers are so expensive is because they are hard to cast. I heard it takes about 4 trys at the foundry to get one good SS impeller. Is this true? I broke two blades off of my AL impeller so I upgraded to an Aggressor MagBronze. I'm real happy with the performance so far. I would post some pics but it's in the boat and I never took any before it went in.:frown:

  5. #35
    Bense468
    Originally posted by MudPumper
    I was told that one of the reasons the stainless impellers are so expensive is because they are hard to cast. I heard it takes about 4 trys at the foundry to get one good SS impeller. Is this true? I broke two blades off of my AL impeller so I upgraded to an Aggressor MagBronze. I'm real happy with the performance so far. I would post some pics but it's in the boat and I never took any before it went in.:frown:
    Well its time to tear her all down again just to get some pics

  6. #36
    MudPumper
    Actually I'm considering another pump rebuild and bottom blueprint. Just gotta get the cash.

  7. #37
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Posts
    303
    A stainless impellor can be welded, repaired. a mag-bronze can't.
    I broke a stainless onetime and had it fixed and you couldn't tell the diff.

  8. #38
    matt1
    Originally posted by okiedave
    A stainless impellor can be welded, repaired. a mag-bronze can't.
    I broke a stainless onetime and had it fixed and you couldn't tell the diff.
    so if I have a stainless C cut and want to make it an A or a B can I just weld it up and remachine it.

  9. #39
    Jetmugg
    The Manganese Bronze alloy used is a good compromise of properties, but is not a weldable alloy. Contrary to the popular "Mag-Bronze" description, there is no Magnesium in this alloy. A more accurate description is Mn-Bronze, but it doesn't roll off the tongue as well. I don't have my Copper Development Assn. handbook handy, but I think that the alloy used is C86300. It is an alloy of Copper, Zinc, Manganese, Iron, and Aluminum. It has good tensile and yield strength (110 Ksi and 60Ksi respectively), but tends to suffer from less than optimum impact strength and relatively low elongation before fracture (12%). This family of alloys offer ease of castability and machining, which allow for relatively low-cost production methods (as compared to the SS alloys). A typical pouring temperature for an alloy like this would be about 1800F.
    In contrast, type 316 SS offers lower tensile and yield strengths (about 80 Ksi and 40 Ksi respectively), but in many cases exhibit elongation percentages greater than 50% before fracture, and very high impact resistance. This family of alloys can take a lot of abuse before failure. The 300 series of stainless steels are very readily weldable by several methods (stick, mig, tig), but are not ideal foundry alloys. A typical pouring temperature for a 300 series SS is about 2850F, which frequently leads to a lot of burned on sand, hot tears, and foundry related defects. The machinability is lower than the Mn Bronzes, and when combined with burned on sand, becomes rather costly to cast and machine.
    There are some other ferrous and non-ferrous alloys which could make impellers of equal or superior properties than those currently used, but 300 series SS and Manganese Bronzes are pretty "common" foundry products which are already well documented and proven in service.
    SteveM

  10. #40
    Duane HTP
    Somebody isnt actually going to use that impeller in a blower boat without first having it cleaned up are they? Geez after seeing this picture and HB's "race detailed" impeller, there really isnt any comparsion is there??. I'm sorry HB.
    Chet, There's quite a bit of compairson for a stock imp vs a race prepped imp. It would help a lot if only you knew what you were looking for. But since you don't, the shinny is probably all that counts to you.
    An impeller just like that, is what Roger won the PE Chanpionship with two years in a row. So, It can't possibly be all bad, can it?
    Would you like to see another picture of it after it's race prepped?

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