Plumbing Superchiller in a Jetboat

[cyclone]

Need info.
i dont want to install a pickup in my hull so can i just T the water lines that go to the front of the innercooler off of my existing water pressure regulator? The jet pump feeds my existing water pressure regulator and from there i've got it running to the top of the engine.
Should i install another regulator for the innercooler?

[79 HUSTLER]

cyclone- on my jetboat it was ran off of the jet, I tee'd off BEFORE my water pressure reg. for my motor. Off of the tee to the intercooler to a very small sea strainer (about 3round/5tall) and then put a pressure regulator just out of the sea strainer. Never had a problem with this setup. Just make sure since this is in a jet to put some kind of filter/sea strainer in the line to the cooler. I have seen quite a few people that did not want to install a sea strainer just put some type of filter inline and added a pressure guage BEFORE the cooler and they contuniually moniter the pressure. If there pressure GOES UP they knew the filter was clogged. Not my ideal way but a lil easier on the wallet. KELLY

[565edge]

Cyclone i heard if you idle for periods of time they will build up condensation and drip into the motor with it plumbed off the pump.If you have a seperate pickup it does not allow alot of water through it at a idle.I have seen some nice looking setups that had the pick-ups off the ride plate.Thats what eliminatya is going to do.

[Infomaniac]

I do not feed the intercooler or the oil cooler at idle.
You could put a check valve in line that will only feed when pressure gets up to on plane RPM's And still use a strainer and relief valve.

[Jbb]

Maximus runs his from the ride plate also Around here when guys have run off pump pressure they had fuel puddling when Idling

[BADBLOWN572]

We used to T into the water inlet line coming from the pump to the motor and then run it to the front of the innercooler. We would then install an adjustable pressure regulator on the rear side of the chiller with a line going to a dump after that. You will want a slight drip coming from the chiller at idle. Definitely not flowing. If the chiller is flowing at idle, it will make the motor run extremely rich and foul out plugs. I learned that the hard way. What innercooler are you running?
Just a tip, take a water pressure gauge with you one time and place it in the block when you head out the first time. Some of the times, the innercooler robs quite a bit of water from the engine which will relieve block pressure. If this is the case you will have to find another source of water inlet for the innercooler. Have someone look at the gauge at wide open throttle and if you don't have any block pressure you could have a problem.
This is a pic of the plumbing on mine. Unfortunately I do not have a picture of the relief valve. It is simply a brass valve on a spring that regulates pressure. The water inlet line should be on the opposite side of the innercooler from the relief valve. This will allow the water to run through the whole innercooler versus in one side and out the same. I will try to get pictures the next time I am out at the shop.
http://www.hotboatpics.com/pics/data...warmingup1.JPG

[MAXIMUS]

Cyclone take the time to run a pick up off of your ride plate! Use a sea strainer that you can visually see if you have stuff caught in! Rex has some really nice units. Before you enter the cooler run a T with a adjustable"blow off valve" & a seperate dump. I connected a garden hose to my inlet, installed a temporary psi guage on the system & then used my thumb to block off the outlet & build psi. Then I adjusted the blow off valve to discharge at 30 psi. Pretty simple way of setting up the system.I would also recommend that you dump the out going line of the cooler up next to the drivers seat so that you can periodicaly verify it is flowing. I would use #12 in & out of the system. There will be plenty of restriction in the system to accomadate scavenging & removal of heat. On my ride plate I used a #12 stainless flanged pick up mounted to the back & side of the plate. I cut off the pick up tube almost flat to the mounting plate. Then I bored a hole through the plate with a tear drop scoop effect on the bottom side. There is nothing sticking down into the stream of water & it flows very well.

[79 HUSTLER]

"We would then install an adjustable pressure regulator on the rear side of the chiller with a line going to a dump after that. "
-I have one ??? about putting the relief valve after the innercooler. Wouldn't having the relief valve after the cooler defete the whole purpose of regulating pressure to the cooler. If you had a huge spike in pressure (very common in a jet) it would then spike through the cooler as well until it hit the regulator. When it is located before the cooler there is no worries about to much pressure built in the cooler which is the whole purpose of the regulator.
-As for water at Idle- When I put on my first blower an 8-71 it did not like water flowing at idle, so I did have a check valve on that setup. But when I switched to a 14-71 it has not made a difference with water flowing or not flowing. I keep the water flowing at idle now because most of the heat on a bigger blower is usually at idle. KELLY

[cyclone]

well i must say i'm thoroughly confused. can anyone post some good pics of their setup, including the seat strainer and pressure regulator.
I had though about adding a dedicated pressure regulator that is fed from the pump and then T-off the line after the regulator to two -12 inlet lines at the front of the Superchiller.
I was under the impression that i just needed two more dump lines and that's it.
Fuel puddling at idle concerns me.
I'm not real enthusiastic about adding a pick up to my ride plate but if that's the best solution then so be it. I'd like to see pics of that too. Thanks guys!
I'm trying to get this thing plumbed and fired this weekend so wish me luck.

[flat broke]

Mike,
Out of your available good options, I'd go with the pickup on the ride plate. I know this means a bulkhead fitting in the transom for -12 line, but its the least invasive solid approach to the whole deal. On the bright side, if you ever decide on a setup without a cooler/blower/whatever, it's super simple to make a new ride plate and put a cap on the bulkhead fitting.
If it's any consolation, I'm wrestling with the same type of decision for the oil cooler plumbing in the spectra. Last year I fed it off the pump, but this year it will be fed off of a pickup. Since I didn't want to pop any additional holes in the bottom of the boat, the ride plate seemed like the best place to do it since I can easily make a new one or alter the existing one if I need to tweak stuff. It's a lot easier for me to machine aluminum than **** with balsa coring and fiberglass.
My big issue is the damn strainer. With em costing as much as or more than a big cooler, it's a hard cost justification. On the bright side, I can clean the strainer on the beach. I can't say the same for cleaning out a cooler.
BTW, if you need any line/fittings, good ol Superdave should be at Long Beach on Sunday. Bring your shopping list or call him in advance.
Chris