I know some of you adjust the water going to headers by using restrictors or ball valves. How much water should be coming out of my headers. I just swithed to a solenoid valve to turn my water on and off. I spliced it into the water inlet line before the water goes into the engine. Since ive done this, i get less water coming out of the exhaust. I actually cant see any water coming out, just steam. Should i have more. Im sure there is a mist, i just cant see it from the drivers seat.
Also my block pressure is like 5psi at cruising speed and gets to about 15 at wot. Is the 5 psi to little? Concerned about hot spots. Im about to add a thermostat so that should bring up the block pressure a little.
Not to sure a t stat is the way to go, I used to use restrictor rings to slow the water flow thru the block and force it into all the areas before I modified it to flood the block first and then take water out of the front and back of the heads. I think they drill some holes in the t stat so you get some flow and dont slam it with cold water then it shuts and you crack something.
At Idle, no water in headers. At speed just a mist. There should be no raw water pouring out of the pipes. A few drips here and there should be OK, but you want steam and maybe a little mist.
Originally posted by MudPumper
At Idle, no water in headers. At speed just a mist. There should be no raw water pouring out of the pipes. A few drips here and there should be OK, but you want steam and maybe a little mist.
Thanks. That is what I have. I used to have alot of water pouring out. My new water injection valve reduced the amount of water going to the exhaust. Makes is sound different also.
Originally posted by Taylorman
Thanks. That is what I have. I used to have alot of water pouring out. My new water injection valve reduced the amount of water going to the exhaust. Makes is sound different also.
Mind posting some pics of you water system so we can see the set-up?thanks :wink:
Mark
I'll take them tonight. I think you posted a picture of the Morose solenoid. That looks like it would work. Its an all in unit, mine i had to buy two pieces plus the window switch.
Markist here are the pictures of my water injection system i rigged up. The pictures are not to good. Its hard to get good pictures under the engine since its so tight under there. The first picture is the t i used to splice into the water line coming off the pump. The line to the left goes to the engine. The fitting pointing up in the picture goes to the valve.
http://www.***boat.com/image_center/...P_3375-med.JPG
The next picture is the valve itself. You can see the fitting at the bottom which is the water going into the valve. The part on the top is the solenoid coil which snaps onto the valve. You can see the two wires coming out of the solenoid which are the + and -. Also I cabled tied the solenoid to the valve to keep it from rotating on the valve.
http://www.***boat.com/image_center/...P_3373-med.JPG
The next picture is the rear of the valve and solenoid. The fitting on the left goes to the t spliced into the water inlet line. The fitting to the right coming out of the valve is a 90* fitting. It turns up and attaches to the bassett t without the spring and ball in it. From the t i went to the headers show in the next picture.
http://www.***boat.com/image_center/...P_3372-med.JPG
http://www.***boat.com/image_center/...P_3366-med.JPG
I used an msd window switch to send power to the solenoid which opens the valve at 1500 rpms. Thats about it.
Here is a picture of my new powdercoat job on my scoop.
http://www.***boat.com/image_center/...P_3379-med.JPG
http://www.***boat.com/image_center/...P_3380-med.JPG
Taylorman, what did that setup cost you, for the window switch and the solenoid? Also, how and where do you regulate the amount of water going to the headers?
Rod
I paid about 100 for the valve and solenoid, 75 for the window switch and relay, and about 20 for the two rpm pills. The low rpm pill is the adjustable one that msd makes. Its adjustable from 1-3K rpms. I used a 4600 rpm pill to turn water off. I regulate the water with ball valves right before the headers. See picture.
http://www.***boat.com/image_center/...P_3366-med.JPG
Here is another suggestion for a solenoid valve that Moroso makes. Summit has it in stock for $100. Its part number MOR-23905. I did not know about it when I bought mine. It is all one piece unlike mine which is 2 pieces.
http://static.summitracing.com/globa.../mor-23905.jpg
Is it me are did those headers get shorter
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