I'm sure this is going to sound real stupid, but I could use some help. I have ls7 454 in my 79 sprint. the motor has been gone through cam has been changed still solid lifter. I have the valve clerances .24 for intakes .26 for exhaust. My question is how do you know when the cam lobe is in the closed position the cam has alot of overlap and it seems like the valve does not competely close until right before it opens. what is the best way to be sure before setting your clerance, Iwas told that the feeler gauge should fit sug is this correct. just what to make sure i do this right don't what any problems right before the season starts. ant help would be greatly apreciated.
Hope this helps,
When adjusting any solid lifter here you go.
On the same cylinder roll the motor over until the exhaust valve just starts to open and stop. Adjust the intake valve. for the exhaust roll the motor over and let the intake fully open and when it just starts to close stop. Adjust the exhaust valve. As far as your feeler gages are corncerned if the lash is .024 you better not be able to put in a .025
Later BK :idea:
thanks alot for the in put i apreciate it, i see what you are talking about do each cylinder seperate this simplifiys things alot thanks....
If your looking to avoid a 16+ rev workout. You can try a simple method I use. Bring the motor to Zero degrees on the compression stroke for the #1 cylinder (check by putting your finger over the #1 spark plug hole) or check the rotor on the dist. Both intake and exhaust valves are always closed when a cylinder is at TDC on the compression stroke. After adjusting both #1 valves rotate crank CW 90 degrees and do the next cylinder (#8 on a chevy) and follow the firing order around rotating the crank 90 degrees each time.
Garrenteed to work on all V8s regardless of engine make or cam overlap and you only have to spin the motor over two full revs. Rotate crank 120 for 6 cylinders and 180 for 4 cylinder. Chevys v8 usually run "18436572". Hell just follow the plug wires on the dist cap.
perfect way to do it is like chris j says.. I just found out about that last year and boy is it so much easier to do the job. No it is not as dreaded of a chore as before!! KELLY
Here's how I've been adjusting mine for years...BBC
#1@ TDC...Exhaust Valves 1,3,4,8
Intake Valves 1,2,5,7
Rotate the Engine one full turn.
#6@ TDC...Exhaust Valves 2,5,6,7
Intake Valves 3,4,6,8
Hate to be the guy who disagrees but here I go again!
If you watch anyone who races Pro Stock adjust valves it is the way I described. You have to be on the heel of the camshaft to adjust them correctly. I used to use the TDC method and the 1 & 6 method. Then one day when I was with Ken Duttweiler he showed me the proper way to do it. I'll tell you, you can't argue with someone who makes 6 hp per Cubic Inch!
Do what you want but I'm sticking with my story.
LOL BK
i've always done it one valve at a time, its not a chore , just tuning your music and you never have to go back because you missed one.
Alright I'll bite. How much did your valve lash change when you switched from the TDC method to the chasing the lobe method? Your on the heel of the cam either way.
I never said your method doesn't work. Just provided another option to accoplish the same task. Both methods will provide the same reults. My advice try both methods and use the one works best for you. It may come down to how easy it is to spin your motor over. Its possible not everyone out there has the same setup as a pro stocker with the motor out in the open.
Posting Permissions
Reply With Quote