Reply With QuoteNo difference in price between the two if you are buying everything new. Build the 540 if you are using a tall deck. Use a Callies Crank.
Just my opinion. You are bound to get a few more. I am doing one myself right now.
I am currently planning a new motor but can not decide between a 540 or 509. It would be expected to make 800 Horsepower, and I would like for it to live. I will be using a Dart Big M block, Carrillo Rods, Crank-undecided, 10-71 blower, Also The heads, I am looking for feedback on AFR, and Brodix.
I know this is the place for good information from persons who have experimented, and have the knowledge, to help me in the right direction.
No difference in price between the two if you are buying everything new. Build the 540 if you are using a tall deck. Use a Callies Crank.
Just my opinion. You are bound to get a few more. I am doing one myself right now.
I am assuming this is a lake motor. Since you have already chosen a good block and realize the importance of the crank and rods, I see no reason not to go ahead with 540. Lunati makes a good crank also. Tall deck block preferred and longest rod you can practically get in it. I think a .400 long rod is possible in the tall deck.
I like the Brodix heads, but AFR seems to be getting into this market also and I am sure they are good heads also.
I suggest you use 11/32 stem Severe duty valves, long enough to give you an installed height of 2.100 inches in order to use the taller valve springs available, assuming you are going to use a roller camshaft.
The block is 9.800, I have a calllies crank but it was previously used, I did have it redone by callies, The reason I thought of AFR heads is I can get them fully assembled, and CNC machined, making less steps for me.
Thanks for the info thus far.
Fiat 48 is the man, be sure and listen to what he has to say. FYI You can get a lot longer than 400 in the tall deck
You can run a 400 long in the 9.800 block with the 4 inch stroke. You can run the 4.25 stroke with 250 long rod but the rod/stroke ratio sucks. You can even squeeze in the 6.405 rod with zero deck and short compression height.
Bore it to 4.600 and bump the 509 to 532 or consider the 4.125 stroke crank.
The combinations are endless.
I chose the tall deck 540 for the rod/stroke ratio and starting the bore at 4.5 for future rebuilds. I suspect it will make 800 HP no problem 900 would be great and any more than that outstanding.
[ January 26, 2003, 10:17 AM: Message edited by: Infomaniac ]
I built a .250 long rod 540 for a customer in a low deck. I agree that I didn't like the rod ratio either, but since it was in a big cruiser and would likely see 6500 as a max, I went with it. I like Info's tall deck combo much better.
I think I'd look into that 4 1/8" stroke since you have the low deck already. I don't think I'd go 4.600 to start as 4.625 is about max for future rebuilds. I'd give up the inches and do 4.500 bore. Cubic inches are nice, but the blower is a great equalizer and I see no problems in getting the power you are looking for. Be sure to specify with AFR on those valves and installed heights as it costs very little to set the heads up right.
Go with a 540!!!
Now I am getting confused, but am thinking .400 rod length, 4" stroke=? c.u. Also what piston is recommended for this application if everyone can agree this would be good, I will do it. What compression ratio is recommended, It has been suggested by a friend 8.5:1, and how much boost? I will also ,use a super chiller.
We can all take credit for this engine when complete, I do know some engine builders but like to do research and gather my own info, all the builders I know want to use .250 rods, are they all behind the times?
Anyone know what is in a Teague 800 ?
If someone else is going to build it send it to me.
Some may like those rods because of using off the shelf parts. Mainly pistons. Some combo's may require custom pistons. Most of mine do.
I like 7.5 compression and a little more boost.
Call Teague and they will tell you. Buy one and we will take it apart and see.
I guess you have a stern drive? Teague has an interesting combination. They do not like to build torque so it is easy on the drive. They sacrifice torque for HP at about 6,200 RPM
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