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Thread: Turbo cam question!

  1. #1
    Dentz
    I have a comp cam now...Dont know power band!
    612 intake 605 exh at 114 center @050 255int and 266exh
    The comp cam pulled hard from 3600 to 6000 with 15lbs of boost!
    Idled real good but considering trying the engle cam!
    What will it change if anything...I am assuming the boost will come in sooner with the engle???
    This is an engle...solid lifter cam...Power band is 2500 to 6800!
    545int 520exh@050 at 114 242int and 228exh
    Could anyone explain it or do I have to try it???
    Help..I am NEW!
    A friend said they had run this engle back in the early 80's and said that engle cams are the shit for turbo application...Comp?Engle, Lift, Duration..RMP...BOOST!!!HELP!

  2. #2
    058
    Turbo cams are for turbos only. A n/a cam will not be the best for any turbo application and that seems to be what is sold by most for turbo application. I run a Comp Cams that is turbo specific that works good. Its specs are 248* intake @ .050"/236* exhaust @.050" with .591" In/.561" Ex lift-114* L/S....This cam will idle @ 800rpm and will pull to 7200 rpm at about 14-15 lbs of boost.

  3. #3
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Mar 2010
    Posts
    883
    You need to know what the cylinder heads flow to maximize cam choice.
    Chris

  4. #4
    FastTimmy
    I believe I ran the TCS 7 engle. worked good for me. I have had alot of exhaust chamber after burn issues with the comp cams.
    The TCS 8 will make over 1000hp.
    Just my .02
    Timmy

  5. #5
    schiada96
    Originally posted by FastTimmy
    I believe I ran the TCS 7 engle. worked good for me. I have had alot of exhaust chamber after burn issues with the comp cams.
    The TCS 8 will make over 1000hp.
    Just my .02
    Timmy
    TCS 8 is what I run

  6. #6
    bigkatboat
    The Engle 'TCS' cams are OK but they hold too much heat. They are 'pinched' on the exhaust timing. Try opening up the centers, 115! Talk to Doug Engle and get the latest "deal" on turbo cams. Back when those cams were EVERYWHERE, motors were only 427 to 510, today we have lot's of aftermarket heads and blocks and 598 and 632's are common. "Good" turbos don't need to be FORCED, like the old days, they spool up with little temp or pressure. I run a static that will 'keep the boat on plane' (7.8/8.2), run the wide lobe centers, (115/116) lots of breathing, (355 Dart) and it doesn't matter, carbs or EFI, big waste gates and INTERCOOLED!

  7. #7
    bigkatboat
    One more thing, "while I'm spooled up". The 'big boost numbers' can cause you more problems than power. You need to find out, 'what it is costing to build this much boost?' High (exhaust) backpressures and temps are robbing life from your motor. Just like 'blower guys', overdriving a belt driven blower, at what point are you going backwards? (taking too much power to build the big boost) I have rebuilt 15lbs motors (they burned down) and made more dyno power with 11.5 lbs, and less heat.(and not lazy) Blowers just force the air in, but with turbos you must work with both ends (intake and exhaust) to get the real torque/power band you want.

  8. #8
    Dentz
    Thanks for the response...Would you recomend changing it now...
    It is 15lbs of boost runs great..but I would hate to burn it down!
    I guess I could dyno it then drill the holes in the turbine housings out to create less boost depending where the power is???
    Any reccomendations??

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