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Thread: Twin Turbo Engine Specs?

  1. #1
    Rayhill
    I know this is the blower motor category, so easy on me! I have a twin turbo 350 Chevy small block.
    I just melted piston #6. Would like to get some ideas on some engine specs before I rebuild. Anybody out there have a good recipe? Would a turbo engine block be built similar to blower or nitrous engine? Below are my current engine specs
    written by the former boat owner.
    Thanks!
    Spec's on engine are as follows:
    Heads are new World Products 67cc heads (standard
    small valve versions with as measured 69cc combustion
    chambers - chambers were close to 70cc when received
    but I had to slightly mill them in order to true them
    up and then I equalized the chambers @ 69cc). Valve
    seats were multi-angled cut, and valves were "back
    cut" and radiused/polished for increased flow. Valve
    bowls were "ported/radiused". Valve size is 1.94"
    intakes and 1.5" exhausts. Total calculated
    compression ratio is 8.05:1. This is using head vol.
    of 69cc, deck hgt. of +.008" (total quench hgt. is
    .047" - .045" is considered minimum perfect for turbo
    engines), gasket vol. of 9cc (Fel-Pro #1014 .039"
    thick head gaskets), TRW forged pistons #L2441F with a
    as measured dish vol. of -23.5cc (suppose to be
    -21.1cc dish but measured -23.5cc). Bore is 4.030"
    diameter and stroke is stock 3.48" = 355cid.
    Rings are Childs & Albert Moly High Strength Plasma
    coated (dutile iron) with wider 1st & 2nd ring end
    gaps for turbo usage (.019" gap).
    Complete engine rotating assembly was balanced.
    Exhaust manifold gaskets are Fel-Pro with steel core.
    Cam is Crane Energizer #10003 (204 deg. duration @
    .050" tappet lift & with .427" valve lift. and 110
    deg. lobe separation). Cam is normally installed
    straight up with 5 deg. advance built in. This cam is
    retarded via 8 deg. offset bushing in cam timing chain
    sprocket for a total retard of 3 deg. (5 deg. advanced
    -8 deg. bushing = 3 deg. retard). Timing chain is a
    Cloyes Tru-Roller.
    Rockers are 1.52:1 Competition Cams roller tip
    rockers.
    Ignition timing is 8 deg. initial advance with an
    additional 24 degrees in the dist., all in by 2800 RPM
    (max. advance is 32 degrees total). Initial timing
    can be reduced to 6 deg. initial, but recommend not
    going below that. Contrary to popular belief,
    retarded timing (for long durations) does reduce
    knock, but then it increases combustion chamber temps.
    as well which then causes knock to return with a
    vengence).
    Note my thinking when building up this engine
    initially was to increase low end torque (for better
    hole shot), and use the turbo's to increase top end.
    I know that I overdid this on the low end and this
    caused the top end to suffer somewhat, and I told you
    about retarding the cam (8 degree retard bushing) to
    get back some of the top end. The new cam was the
    next step (according to my discussions with the
    experts- Gale Banks & Engle Cams), but I never
    installed it. It depends upon how you are going to
    use the boat (everything is a compromise). If you are
    going to ski, tube, etc. and bottom end is more
    important, then return the cam timing back to it's
    initial setting of 5 deg. advanced (replace the cam
    sprocket offset bushing with a "zero" bushing). If
    top end speed and high speed cruising is where it will
    be operated at, then leave it as is, or replace the
    cam with the new one (your choice either way).
    Frankly, as it is, I think it is a good compromise
    with great performance in all catagories (but we
    always want more).
    New Engle cam spec is as follows:
    #1002H (grind # TCS-2HYD). Duration @ .050" tappet
    lift is 216 deg. intake & 210 deg. exhaust. Valve
    lift is .458" intake & .440" exhaust. Lobe center is
    116 deg. Description per Engle: Turbocharger Hyd.
    Camshaft designed for modified engines with 8:1
    compression ratio. Power band 2800 to 6000 RPM. This
    cam will definately be weaker on the bottom end, but
    would wake up the top end considerably!

  2. #2
    zahndok
    You didn't mention if you had an EGT gauge or what kind of exhaust. If not this comes first to hotrod with a turbo. Get the EGT down and you'll stop melting pistons. Bigger more open exhaust from turbos back to lower EGT and still put the fuel to it.
    [ August 17, 2002, 09:39 PM: Message edited by: zahndok ]

  3. #3
    Rayhill
    No EGT gauge.
    The turbo system is set up for the old log type system. M&W is the manufacturer. They no longer make this kit due to not having a center rise system.
    The boat has thru hull exhaust below the water line.
    The boat has an old Carter Knock Detector, which goes off at full throttle. I dont stay into it over 30 seconds. I back off til it stops.
    The kit came with a water injection system. The previous owner opted not to use?? I have heard that if I used the water injection system and mix the water 50/50 with ????? I cant recall?

  4. #4
    BOOSTDADDY
    Most melt downs are caused by problems in the fuel system. You made no mention of the fuel systems.

  5. #5
    HeavyHitter
    The cam you've got really should be changed. 110 lobe centers really doesn't work even with the short duration you have. The recommended cam is a bit small as well but not sure what you're trying to get out of the engine. What size are the turbos? The one upgrade on the heads would be to go with inconel exhaust valves. Other than those 2 things sounds like a good basic package.

  6. #6
    FastTimmy
    Well what is the fuel system? Blow through or draw through? I gess draw through.
    Is it intercooled?
    Any plans to put some arm in it and get some more cu.in.?
    Engle is the right direction and so is the inconel. JE Pistons has some Good slugs that hold up great aswell!
    How much boost were you making?
    How much HP do you whant?
    The usual mix is water/alcohol.
    You might also whant to think about locking the timing out at your desired total degrees.
    What brand and heat range plug are running?

  7. #7
    Rayhill
    Thanks all
    For the info and questions. I had to go out of town last week. I will try to post a pic of the engine.
    Reccomended boost is 4lbs. Was running 5 lbs. ??
    Low isnt it ?
    Stock 4 barrel carb and intake.
    Bosch platinum plugs
    High output mech. fuel pump.
    No intercooler. The turbos are water and oil cooled.
    When I bought the boat I thought that when I first started having problems, the turbos must go.
    But they are just way too much fun! I want a dependable engine that will last not necessarily be a demon of sorts.
    Thanks again!!
    KevinB

  8. #8
    Rayhill
    Another try at a pic !
    [img]http://groups.msn.com/_Secure/0RACMDEEXx!9VTCRjjQ924jez4HOCmou0r8OrAyOfwk9XOBIpH m41jF7PyOyvM5K6Jhf2cNilRgEsxoxUjOnkyPbiXDGWcI1G2*d cVRTqKOo/CV-23ENGINESIDE.jpg[/img]

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