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Thread: 460 connecting rod recomendations

  1. #1
    460Waikiki
    Hello I was down at the river this weekend and I blew the 460 motor!!! Ill be tearing in to the engine this weekend. I belive my stock conecting rods gave out because i got a dent and a small hole in the dooley oil pan. I am wondering wich connecting rods should i go with? the Eagle h beam or the scat h beam rods??
    there is a pretty good price difference between the two. what are you guys runin in your jet boats??......other than 454's
    thanks Ed

  2. #2
    LakesOnly
    What will your overall engine combo be? Will you rebuild stock or will you be modifying your motor (or is it already modified)?
    Without knowing any of the above, I venture to guess that you will not need the H-beam rods and that the Eagle I-beam's will suit you fine. Supposedly good to 700HP. Unless you will have more than, say, 600+ HP then the H-Beam rods will cost more, be overkill and will increase your balancing costs slightly.
    I have a set of Super Cobra Jet rods with a polished beam section if you're interested...they won't suit any of my upcoming builds...
    LO
    ps: Also, what are you running for an oil pan?

  3. #3
    460Waikiki
    My Engine is a modified 460 .030 trw dished pistons, and i have smog d3ve heads, cam is unkown, has the non adjustable pedisatal rockers,shimed bouble valve springs w/ stock length manley pushrods.as far as an oil pan i run the 10qt dooley enterprises with that long pick up tube and a windage tray. I had stock conecting rods, my machinest told me that the boat must of hit a wake and made the rpm's shoot up and as soon as boat landed back on the water it was too much load on the stock conecting rods. he showed me a few stock 460 rods that had same thing happen. its unbelivable how the engine just twisted them!!!Well i am going to tear engine apart this weekend and see exactly what the heck
    happend see how the crank is as well as the block. I dont exactly know how much damage but with out looking inside i wont now how bad my wallet will be damaged too, so i dont know if i could afford the rods you got just yet thanks ed

  4. #4
    LakesOnly
    I've heard some pretty incredible stories about the reliability of the stock rods. But there are also horror stories. To some extent, it seems to me that those people that are consistently successful with the stock rod application are usually those that really know how to prepare and assemble an engine. Also, when they do break, they seem to all break in the same place...along the I-beam.
    The stock rods (with quality bolts) are okay with the weight of the stock cast pistons or lightweight aftermarket ones. Under these circumstances, they really should hold up in a 5000+ rpm jet boat without any trouble whatsoever, no matter who builds it.
    But most TRW pistons can be on the heavy side of the scale, and usually the addition of such pistons comes with more cam, more carb, more RPM, etc.....
    I think that you should get the Eagle I-Beam rods. They cost less than the H-Beam rods and should suit your current build just fine. Personally, I prefer to spend the extra $25 (or so) and get the bushed small end so that you will have full-floating wristpins.
    All the above is based on your current build and is assuming you need only rods. Obviously, once you tear down your engine, you may find further damage and this may influence how you will rebuild your engine...but I would still recommend the I-beams over the H-beams (up to 600 HP).
    Food for thought: Don't know how big the dish is in your pistons, but flat-top TRW's and D3VE heads will give you around 9.5:1 compression ratio in a 460. A little port clean-up on your exhaust ports on those D3VE's and you may be happy; the secrets of the D3VE cylinder head have been unlocked and they can provide significant power. It just depends on what speicifically you want to build.
    LO
    p.s. Finally, if your whole rotaing assembly is toast, you may just consider an entire SCAT or Eagle rotating assembly...like a 514 cubic incher. Comes with the crank, H-Beam Rods, pistons and bearings. Pretty much everything you need except machining and gaskets. Around $1495. And the best part is that with your D3VE heads, flat-tops will give you about a 10:1 c/r (less with dish-tops). I think that in the near future, the D3VE is going to find its place as a "street stroker" head due to it's 96cc combustion chamber and its newfound perfomance capabilities.

  5. #5
    460Waikiki
    thanks for the info LO. and were are those secrets to unlock the
    D3VE's.......( have you seen that re-in-car-nation website? , is that were the secrets are.is it worth the membership fee?)lets say for instace i go with a stroker kit what size carb would you recomend a 850 double pumper??and cam wise as well? i ask because i dont think my 750 mechanical demon would be enough or would it? if I were to change engine configuration what do you think along the lines of my pump will it have to be changed as well? i dont know exactly what size impelar it has but it gets top speed at about 3800-4000 rpm,by the way its an old jacuzzi 12wj pump. i found out if i take it past 4000 my rockers would get loose and shoot push rods and dump lifters in to the valley.but I think it was a mistake i made by not titening the rockers correctly th first time. but the second time everythig held up good , now its a bottom end problem. Sorry for asking so may questions just my first jet and learning at a fast pace thanks

  6. #6
    LakesOnly
    Originally posted by 460Waikiki
    have you seen that re-in-car-nation website? Is it worth the membership fee? Lets say for instance i go with a stroker kit what size carb would you recomend a 850 double pumper?? and cam wise as well? i ask because i dont think my 750 mechanical demon would be enough or would it? if I were to change engine configuration what do you think along the lines of my pump will it have to be changed as well? i dont know exactly what size impeller it has but it gets top speed at about 3800-4000 rpm,by the way its an old jacuzzi 12wj pump. i found out if i take it past 4000 my rockers would get loose and shoot push rods and dump lifters in to the valley.but I think it was a mistake i made by not titening the rockers correctly th first time.
    If you feel you are competent in engine disassemly/reassembly, then I would say that the one-time fee for site access is well worth it; there's a ton of BBF mod info there.
    If you end up building a stroker motor, an 850 may suffice and a 950HP would be really nice.
    In the case of your cam, and assuming it's just the shortblock you will be rebuilding, you will be somewhat restricted in hi-perf cam choice with the stock valve train. If you will be using the D3's with a stock valve train on a 514, I would recommend the biggest cam that the OEM rockers can handle...say something like a Comp Cams Extreme Energy 513-520/218*-224*/110LC. A cam like this in a 514 is as small as one would dare use, and the engine would operate like a "stock BBF passenger car 514." (Special Note: This cam choice is based on the BBF rockers' limited handling capability of associated valve spring pressures; a bigger cam would suit the 514 better, but a better valve train will be required--specifically aftermarket rockers.)
    With such a shortblock, your D3VE heads will absolutely need to be ported on the exhaust side (minimum), 2.19 intake valves and a bowl hog would be nice...and so stepping up on the valve train would a logical progression--which would also accomodate more cam for the large cube motor.
    Such an engine will not rev any more than a stock one but would have more torque than stock, and so I think your stock jacuzzi pump will handle it (you will see more rpm's than you have stated).
    The nice thing about such a build is that should you later decide to step up power-wise, you will have to do nothing to your shortblock...just pick your compression ratio carefully when you order the rotating assy.
    LO

  7. #7
    460Waikiki
    thanks LO you been a great help thanks for taking time to answer my questions ...ED

  8. #8
    Ranz1
    Lakesonly, When going stroked or even a nicley built 460 it it cost effective to just get a set of Edelbrock's Performer RPM 460 Aluminum Cylinder Head Click Here (http://edelbrock.com/automotive/headford460.html) (About $1760 from Jegs) ?
    What is this site you guys are talking about

  9. #9
    beached 1
    Originally posted by Ranz1
    Lakesonly, When going stroked or even a nicley built 460 it it cost effective to just get a set of Edelbrock's Performer RPM 460 Aluminum Cylinder Head Click Here (http://edelbrock.com/automotive/headford460.html) (About $1760 from Jegs) ?
    What is this site you guys are talking about
    sorry, I know your question is for LO but just throwing in my $.02.
    I'd say no. Not unless you are planning to spin alot of RPM.
    quote from the add: These heads made over 500+ hp at 6500 rpm (+30 hp more than ported factory heads)
    6500 is a lot of spining for a "stroked or even a nicley built 460 "
    a nice set of ported D3's or D0 heads would give a lot more HP than you might think..
    good luck

  10. #10
    OMEGA_BUBBLE_JET
    I would definitely consider the edelbrock's as they come 'ready to run' out of the box. you will spend close to that amount trying to get the d3' to work right. Let's also not forget that you can run higher compression ratio with aluminum heads. The only thing I would worry about is corrosion in the aluminum heads. Does anyone have a problem with this? do the cooling ports get corroded real bad?
    I think it should also be mentioned that if your crank is not shot you can off set grind the crank use a chevy rod and swap the pistons for less than the above kit and I guarantee the Ford casting is much better quality than the above mentioned brand. Just my opinion no flame intended
    Omega

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