Reply With QuoteEasy job to fix,
Wood dowels. fiberglass
Brian
909-883-3739
This is what I get for taking the boat out on a holliday weekend. Didn't get off the gas in time and came down hard on a pretty sizeable wake. Left motor mount snapped.
http://www.***boat.com/image_center/...Mount1-med.JPG
http://www.***boat.com/image_center/...Mount2-med.JPG
So my problem is this. I've been running a 3 point motor mount system and after the mount broke it reemed out the holes in the stringers where the bolts were on both the left and right motor mounts. I need some ideas on how to get this thing back together for the summer. I'm thinking the only way to use the front mount is to make some bushings to eliminate any slop in the holes through the stringers and go to a 4 point mount for added strength. I don't think a rail kit would work because of the angle of the stringers, they slant inward. When I put the new front mount on I had to machine the feet to match the angle of the stringers as they are not verticle where the engine mounts. There are some damp spots in the stringers near where the old motor mounts used to be . When I bought the boat the old mount had reemed those holes out and the motor was sitting down almost on the bottom of the boat. I corrected the motor angle and put the new front mount on. The old mount location is in the right of the pic, the holes are now filled with silicone. What do you guys think, shy of putting new stringers in the boat???? And how much would new stringers run??? http://www.***boat.com/image_center/...Mount3-med.JPG
http://www.***boat.com/image_center/...Mount4-med.JPG
Easy job to fix,
Wood dowels. fiberglass
Brian
909-883-3739
not a pro but if the stringers are soft I would replace them. If your holes are reemed out just fill them with mar glass, bondo or even dowels and re drill. Good luck and sorry to hear the bad news.
Epoxy wood dowels into the holes & redrill. You can use a bigger bolt to that might take up any remaining slop! Then over the winter shit can the mounts & go to a rail set up! You will just have to match the angles of the stringers etc...
If you ream the existing holes to, say 3/4, straight and clean, then use 3/4 bushings with your 3/8 bolt holes through them. You could even go out to 1 inch,(larger OD bushing) epoxy them in and still locate the same place for the 3/8 bolts.........As already stated here, if the stringers are in fact rotted away, well that will take a little more work, but drilling out to good wood MAY save your summer.................Moneypitt
I'd go with the above responses with a twist. If the wood is good, drill it out to where its clean, dowel it with a good wood and epoxy then reglass the area. THEN fab and install a rail kit since you won't be landing on your repair with the new bolt locations any how.
Of course you could just sell your boat, go without a ride for the rest of the season and spend the rest of your time working on that SWTD that you posted about
Good luck,
Chris
If the stringers are kinda questionable but you don't want to address them until after summer, here's something you might consider.
You could "sister" the stringers by running a piece of lumber along the outside. Obviously the wider the better, as much contact area with the stringer as possible. I'd and cut some plywood for the engine compartment side of the stringer, and glue/resin everything to the stringer. Drill through the ply, the stringer, and the "sister" lumber and put some bolts/w big washers in to clamp the whole mess together.
The existing glass around the old stringer should be strong enough to keep everything in place, the trick is to distribute the load well with the extra lumber.
Yeah it's a redneck idea, but I'd do it..
some viable ideas here. But it seems like if you were to drill out and replace with a dowel, the dowel could crack? Maybe not. I dont think marglass would work. It would probably crack out once exposed to the weight and torque of the motor.
On my dads last boat, the stringers were in decent shape, but the holes has rounded out and the oil pan was hitting the pump intake. He took a piece of 1x6 angle aluminum (1/4 inch thick?) and saddled the stringers with that. Drilled new holes and motor wasn't moving.
If your stringers are in need of replacement, this would get you through the summer, until you could replace them(expensive to have done-cheaper to DIY) Then you could use the angle on the new install to prevent this from ever happening-or you could go with the rail kit...
Originally posted by flat broke
I'd go with the above responses with a twist. If the wood is good, drill it out to where its clean, dowel it with a good wood and epoxy then reglass the area. THEN fab and install a rail kit since you won't be landing on your repair with the new bolt locations any how.
Of course you could just sell your boat, go without a ride for the rest of the season and spend the rest of your time working on that SWTD that you posted about
Good luck,
Chris
I like this one....... oh, maybe because thats what I did!
HBjet
Originally posted by BrendellaJet
On my dads last boat, the stringers were in decent shape, but the holes has rounded out and the oil pan was hitting the pump intake. He took a piece of 1x6 angle aluminum (1/4 inch thick?) and saddled the stringers with that. Drilled new holes and motor wasn't moving.
I like this one.
That's how they set up the rails in the rough water v drive deals.
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