Check out Jims R/C Boat Dock. Someone on the boards there will help you out. www.jrcbd.com (http://www.jrcbd.com)
Has anybody got any pictures of a boat like mine. Im looking for some ideas on motor size and where to find all the hardware I need. I have a local Hobby shop but after calling them they were not much help at all.
I was going to install a 50cc whacker motor but I was told thats way to big. The boat is 31'' long. 10" Wide with a side of about 3". I do not want electric. I really wanted something with a spark plug that could run on regular gas. Not that Nitro stuff.
Can anyone give me any info????
http://www.***boat.com/image_center/...76cnxt0025.jpg
Check out Jims R/C Boat Dock. Someone on the boards there will help you out. www.jrcbd.com (http://www.jrcbd.com)
I want one of those little suckers.
Dans66Stevens,
Here are some online hobby shops that i have used for my trucks. But I think with that small of a boat you might have to go with a .21 RC motor that runs Nitro. You might be able to go with a .61 or .81 Nitro motor as well. You would have to see how the boats sits in water with the motor just sitting in it.
I have seen boats that have ran little weed wacker motors in them but they had a deeper "V".
If you get it done post some pics.
http://www.hobbypeople.net/categories/boats.asp
http://www.towerhobbies.com/index.html
http://www.hobby-warehouse.com/index.html
http://www.ehobbies.com/
C'mon man, nitro is the highest level of modeling! I built 2 nitro v-hull boats about 17 yrs. ago. The 33"? Dumas sorcerer used an O.S. 7.5cc 1.9hp at 23,000rpm inboard. I ran a surface drive(prop centerline even with bottom of hull) and it hit around 35mph. Fun to drive and awesome rooster tail. I used a Dumas hardware kit that was made for hull. 5 to 10% nitro for everyday use, 40% for all out screaming. Next boat I built was a Youngblood? fiberglass hull 43" long. Learned from previous boat, and rigged from scratch. Went with surface drive again. Used solid driveline in a brass tube, ran needle bearings in ends of tube to support driveline. U-joints at both ends. I bought a hollow rudder that had an integral water pickup to feed cylinder head and exhaust manifold. Had a K&B 11cc (3hp at 22,000), in billet motor mount with rubber isolators. This boat did about 50mph.
The weed eater boats I had seen were pretty slow, but I'm sure there are some fast ones by now. (Yes I have seen the 100+ mph electrics!)
Things I learned are: Loctite EVERYTHING-it is amazing how setscrews vibrate loose. Use a solid driveline, not the large speedo-cable crap. Radio box is difficult to seal and any moisture will messs up radio. My first boat lost control couple times and went on beach because of this. $90 a pop for piston,rod and sleeve :frown: for the OS because it was a japanese motor. K&B was cheaper. Back then someone came out with a steerable stern/surface drive that I was going to use. More efficient and controllable than having a fixed prop/movable rudder set up. Haven't seen since.
You can also hang a nitro outboard and save yourself lots of work. To go inboard, you will need to epoxy or glass in two full length 3/8 plywood 2" high stringers. Use cardboard to make pattern. Check motor mount and fuel tank dimensions to determine width, around 3-4" depending on motor size. Buy the motor and mount first, so you can get stingers and motor placed properly. If you mock everything up, the motor should sit about in the center of boat. Keep the rear slightly heavier so when it jumps a wave at speed it will land properly. You can adjust 16 oz. fuel tank position in front to fine tune balance. Drill propshaft hole as low as possible on transom, about 3/16 off-center to counteract torque steer. Use a 2 blade Octura beryllium copper prop. If you use a 3-channel radio, you can use 3rd servo for mixture and lean the sucker out when wide open. Or even fabricate a "trim" setup. My prop trim was adjustable on beach only. A .21 would be adequate, a .46(7.5cc) better
All my info. is 17 yrs. old, so likely lots of new products out. I gave it up because I was spending more on the r/c boat than my real boat :notam:
Dont know if this helps Dan......A couple of shots of a boat thats been sitting in my basement for a few years....
http://www.***boat.com/image_center/...DSCF0032td.JPG
http://www.***boat.com/image_center/...DSCF0033td.JPG
http://www.***boat.com/image_center/...DSCF0034td.JPG
Very similar configuration to what I had. I had a painter friend do fades and stripes in multiple colors on hull and looked bitchin'. Also ran a washer pump, small 12v gel cell, and gallon jug in my stand to run and tune on beach. Motors will seize quick without water. As you can see, this is sparking my interest again hahahah :cry:
That looks to be a .45 or so by the size of pipe? My carbs were in front of motors.
C'mon man, nitro is the highest level of modeling! I built 2 nitro v-hull boats about 17 yrs. ago. The 33"? Dumas sorcerer used an O.S. 7.5cc 1.9hp at 23,000rpm inboard. I ran a surface drive(prop centerline even with bottom of hull) and it hit around 35mph. Fun to drive and awesome rooster tail. I used a Dumas hardware kit that was made for hull. 5 to 10% nitro for everyday use, 40% for all out screaming. Next boat I built was a Youngblood? fiberglass hull 43" long. Learned from previous boat, and rigged from scratch. Went with surface drive again. Used solid driveline in a brass tube, ran needle bearings in ends of tube to support driveline. U-joints at both ends. I bought a hollow rudder that had an integral water pickup to feed cylinder head and exhaust manifold. Had a K&B 11cc (3hp at 22,000), in billet motor mount with rubber isolators. This boat did about 50mph.
The weed eater boats I had seen were pretty slow, but I'm sure there are some fast ones by now. (Yes I have seen the 100+ mph electrics!)
Things I learned are: Loctite EVERYTHING-it is amazing how setscrews vibrate loose. Use a solid driveline, not the large speedo-cable crap. Radio box is difficult to seal and any moisture will messs up radio. My first boat lost control couple times and went on beach because of this. $90 a pop for piston,rod and sleeve :frown: for the OS because it was a japanese motor. K&B was cheaper. Back then someone came out with a steerable stern/surface drive that I was going to use. More efficient and controllable than having a fixed prop/movable rudder set up. Haven't seen since.
You can also hang a nitro outboard and save yourself lots of work. To go inboard, you will need to epoxy or glass in two full length 3/8 plywood 2" high stringers. Use cardboard to make pattern. Check motor mount and fuel tank dimensions to determine width, around 3-4" depending on motor size. Buy the motor and mount first, so you can get stingers and motor placed properly. If you mock everything up, the motor should sit about in the center of boat. Keep the rear slightly heavier so when it jumps a wave at speed it will land properly. You can adjust 16 oz. fuel tank position in front to fine tune balance. Drill propshaft hole as low as possible on transom, about 3/16 off-center to counteract torque steer. Use a 2 blade Octura beryllium copper prop. If you use a 3-channel radio, you can use 3rd servo for mixture and lean the sucker out when wide open. Or even fabricate a "trim" setup. My prop trim was adjustable on beach only. A .21 would be adequate, a .46(7.5cc) better
All my info. is 17 yrs. old, so likely lots of new products out. I gave it up because I was spending more on the r/c boat than my real boat :notam:
Gas isn't slow any more, my oval trim rigger runs in the 80's and my buddy's straight line boat was over 100MPH. Check out his web site Insane Boats (http://www.insaneboats.com). Nitro fuel $30 to $60 a gallon or gas $2.00.
hey you guys , Dan wants a gas engine ,not nitro Here's a picture of my 46" Prather I've built in 1980 .I've modified a 35cc Pioneer chainsaw engine [full ball bearinged ]with watercooling .Machined the fins off and made a waterjacket for the head.I've also made a scale Arneson drive for it .I've cheated on the inners though :smile: [ shelved the U-joint for a racing 1/4 cable hooked up with a 3 blade 2 1/2 Octura prop].The belt drive ratio to the input collet is 1:2 [ca 16000rpm at the prop] .I've a 23 Zenoah for a newer project which is plenty for a boat up to 3'. Dan's boat is way too small for a 50cc weedwacker :rollside:
Here's a shot of the Prather next to my Spectra on Skaha Lake b.c.You can see the sparkplug sticking through the engine hatch.
http://www3.telus.net/spectrasonly/penticton19815.jpg