Flow-coat

[SANGER-RICH]

I know this has been beat to death but I need to find out where to get it to finish my floor ahd how much do I need

[FlatRat]

Hey Rich,
are ya workin' the Shovelnose? :idea:

[SANGER-RICH]

Hey Rich,
are ya workin' the Shovelnose? :idea:
I think it is working me, I have it off the trailer
http://www2.***boat.com/image_center/data/520/1247huvercraft1.jpg

[BILLY.B]

Rev-Chem Plastics.....909 or the area code may of changed to 951 (877-8477, 875-5046). Ask if they have a distributer in your area, chances are they do. You'll need a gallon of what is called Dura Tec high gloss clear (flow coat). They also make an anti-fisheye additive that I highly recommend especially when doing older floors. You'll also need the MEK hardener. If your looking to do the stringers or the center section in a different color they make that also. Good luck.

[GofastRacer]

Here ya go!
Revchem Plastics! (http://www.revchem.com/)

[Sangster]

Rich....There's a place in West Sac.... Call Mike's Marine, they can get it for you...Ask for Greg or Brian..But they will be in Red bluff till Monday.....

[SANGER-RICH]

Thanks everyone now one more question, would you do the finish work the floor first or do the paint on the out side first so there is no way of overspay on the inside????????

[GofastRacer]

Do the inside first, you know you're going to ding the outside while working on the inside!.. Use a drop cloth on the floor and tape newspaper to the gunnels to cover the inside while you paint the boat!..

[WILDERTHANU]

Im doing a little temporary patch work behind my shaft log where the flow-coat chipped up, about a 5"x 3" area. I plan on doing the whole floor someday, but for now it's basically in really good shape. To say the least I was really bummed to see the chipping. Sooo I hope to get away with a quicker fix right now so I can get the boat put back together, and on the water again. After grinding the loose stuff away should I use a spray gun to apply the resin?? Does the stuff stack up within a couple coats??? Whats works realy good on the rest of the floors to get them to shine back up???

[EXTREMEBOATS]

NO, you dont have to spray it. You can float on coats with a brush. Build it up enogh to be able to block sand it flush. Stepping to a finer grit paper. Finish with 800 wet and buff it in with a med. to course compound. As for the rest of the floor, wet sand with 800 also and buff it up. I cant say how much it will improve, it really depends on how bad it is. It's worked for me several times so give it a shot. Just another idea, after sanding, mask off everything and shoot a few coats of urathane clear on it. Done that too... good luck and if you need more just call me.
Mike :confused: :notam: :hammerhea

[SANGER-RICH]

Rich....There's a place in West Sac.... Call Mike's Marine, they can get it for you...Ask for Greg or Brian..But they will be in Red bluff till Monday.....
Do you have a number??

[WILDERTHANU]

NO, you dont have to spray it. You can float on coats with a brush. Build it up enogh to be able to block sand it flush. Stepping to a finer grit paper. Finish with 800 wet and buff it in with a med. to course compound. As for the rest of the floor, wet sand with 800 also and buff it up. I cant say how much it will improve, it really depends on how bad it is. It's worked for me several times so give it a shot. Just another idea, after sanding, mask off everything and shoot a few coats of urathane clear on it. Done that too... good luck and if you need more just call me.
Mike :confused: :notam: :hammerhea
I've talked to a couple people and I'm still a little confused on what to use. The area I'm fixing is in the black right behind the shaft log. Basically I've got it sanded down to the bare floor in the spot I had the chipping. The shaft log was moved and the clear was never applied where the holes were filled, so It chipped up around those old holes. Its not real bad just a small patch, but it bugs the hell out of me, and I'd like it to look right. The clear that chipped up is about 1/16" thick, and pulled the black up that was stuck to it. Is this clear gel coat???? Flow coat?? Polyester resin??? As you can see I'm not sure how they layed the floors of these things. I'd like to be able to blend it the best of my ability without doing the whole floor(thats a couple years down the road). Is this the stuff I want to be using Duratec Polyester Hi-Gloss Coating (http://duratec1.com/dp05.html). The floor is the original as far as I know, so I want to put down the same material. Then my plan is to sand and buff the rest of the floor and try and bring it back to life. Any help would be great.
Here is the best shot of the floor I have(dirty as hell)... Its a '77 Cole.
http://www2.***boat.com/image_center/data/524/275Picture_030.bmp

[WILDERTHANU]

Anyone that can give a bit of advice..... :idea:

[Kurtis500]

Good question. My boats have that black in there also. My guess is the black is a layer of black gel or colored resin. The top shiney layer in my flat is resin also. If you want to touch up just the small area and plan to re-do it later on, I would get a small quantity of polyester resin and some black coloring agent. Catalyze the resin with the black in it and put the black where the black originally was. Let it cure, and top coat with the resin. Either cover the last layer with PVA or get a resin with some waxing agent in it. Or you can buy the waxing agent from some places that sell small quantities.

[BrendellaJet]

Good question. My boats have that black in there also. My guess is the black is a layer of black gel or colored resin. The top shiney layer in my flat is resin also. If you want to touch up just the small area and plan to re-do it later on, I would get a small quantity of polyester resin and some black coloring agent. Catalyze the resin with the black in it and put the black where the black originally was. Let it cure, and top coat with the resin. Either cover the last layer with PVA or get a resin with some waxing agent in it. Or you can buy the waxing agent from some places that sell small quantities.
Cant he use black gel?

[EXTREMEBOATS]

We use gel coat. It works with all resins so you wont have any hick-ups. Because your top coating it you can thin it with acetone or Mek even styrein. It will lay down smoother so your top coat takes less work. I use waxing agent more than PVA and I find it to be easier to finish. On a larger area PVA is the chit... Good luck , :hammerhea Mike

[Kurtis500]

Cant he use black gel?
Sure, but why buy at least a quart or gallon for a tablespoon size quantity? The stuff aint cheap, resin has increased prices 4 times in the last 9 months.

[WILDERTHANU]

Good question. My boats have that black in there also. My guess is the black is a layer of black gel or colored resin. The top shiney layer in my flat is resin also. If you want to touch up just the small area and plan to re-do it later on, I would get a small quantity of polyester resin and some black coloring agent. Catalyze the resin with the black in it and put the black where the black originally was. Let it cure, and top coat with the resin. Either cover the last layer with PVA or get a resin with some waxing agent in it. Or you can buy the waxing agent from some places that sell small quantities.
So you're saying lay one layer with the black in it, let it harden. Then come back over it with the plain clear... Will it sand flat and buff out?? Whos product do you recommend??

[Kurtis500]

So you're saying lay one layer with the black in it, let it harden. Then come back over it with the plain clear... Will it sand flat and buff out?? Whos product do you recommend??
Yep. That should work. Put the black where the black went and let it cure. After it has cured, you can put the clear resin over top. The clear resin is probably over the black color resin/gel as it is now. You can do it with a brush. I have also used saran wrap to cover the top layer and smooth it out instead of PVA or waxing agent. Tiny chips and dings repair well like that. I'm not sure just how big of an area you have to fix though. A good laminating resin from any of the chemical companies will work fine for what you need to do. I use different products from 5 of the companies and each work well. Ashland, Reichhold, Valspar, CCP, HK are all good, theres more too. It will sand and buff out nicely.

[EXTREMEBOATS]

A quart of black gel with wax in it costs a whole $10 bucks... I pay $28 for a gallon at the local auto paint store. Thats a cheap price for doing it right! :hammer2: Mike

[Kurtis500]

A quart of black gel with wax in it costs a whole $10 bucks... I pay $28 for a gallon at the local auto paint store. Thats a cheap price for doing it right! :hammer2: Mike
$140 for a 5 gallon jug isnt bad..is it tooling gel? If so, I need the name and number for that place.

[TRG]

A quart of black gel with wax in it costs a whole $10 bucks... I pay $28 for a gallon at the local auto paint store. Thats a cheap price for doing it right! :hammer2: Mike
If it were me, i probably would NOT use any gel/ flo-cote with a surfacing agent (wax) in it! your gonna be more likely to have problems with laying down a flo-cote (over the gel with "wax") without dealing with fisheye's
just my .02, have dealt with this and its not a pretty outcome! :frown:
Todd

[SANGER-RICH]

Rich....There's a place in West Sac.... Call Mike's Marine, they can get it for you...Ask for Greg or Brian..But they will be in Red bluff till Monday.....
Can anyone give me the number for Mikes Marine?? I cant find a listing for it in 411.

[NitroFish]

Mike's Marine 707.678.4839 1301 D. Business Park, Dixon CA.

[EXTREMEBOATS]

Just a bit more info for everyone. When you use a wax additive it can be removed by wiping the gel or resin repair with a rag and acetone. Acetone will break the surface beyond the wax. "I" wipe the repair atleast twice to be sure the wax is removed. Fish eye is now not a issue. Even using material with wax all ready in it. This is really easier than you think. Hell I'll go as far to offer to send you enough gel coat to do what you need FREE to help you and others understand its simplicity. Mike :hammerhea