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Thread: Re-sealing and silicone questions.

  1. #1
    My floor should be done this weekend, then I will start resealing the cav plate, strut, log and both skegs. I was wondering what the BEST stuff is to use. Also, do you just put silicone on the threads only? or just slap it on all around the plates once they are on? I want to do a clean job and just silicone the bare minimum needed.

  2. #2
    PE 316
    For resealing anything the goes on/through the floor of the boat, do NOT used silicone sealant. WHEN you spill fuel or oil on the floor of the boat, it will eat away the silicone and can cause leaks.
    I recommend you to use a product from PERMATEX called "Form-A-Gasket" (No. 2). This is a slow drying, non-hardening sealant designed for sealing cut gaskets and stamped parts. Allows for easy disassembly (if required). Temperature range -65*F to 400*F; resists water, gasoline, oil, kerosine, glycol, grease, propane & butane. Use where sealing is more important than adhesion.
    Part# 80015 - 1.5oz. tube
    Part# 80016 - 3.0oz. tube (this is the one you'll find on the shelf)
    Part# 80011 - 11 oz. tube
    You should be able to find this product at you local auto parts supplier.

  3. #3
    Sea goin poxy putty is what I use to put stuff on that I don't want to come off or leak. Schiada uses it to bed struts and turn fins. I would not use it on the plates use a polyurathane sealant for them it remains flexible.

  4. #4
    Another suggestion, if you do not plan to take it apart very often, "like never" 3M 5200 marine sealant.Dont put it on threads just around the holes. And if you use S/S bolts make sure you use Antiseize on them. Or they will remove the threads going on and off. :hammerhea Mike
    One more thing, If the bolts fall out that chit will hold on your valuables for sure....

  5. #5
    3 different suggestions, thanks. Now I will have to pick one. :idea:

  6. #6
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    I used the method Shiada96 used. My revenge was originaly set up with the sea-going puttty. Installing the peices in a "Bed" of putty is the trick. You can install the hardware & get it exactly where it needs to be with the fasteners loose. Then come back & tightten all the fasteners. Worked killer for getting my prop strut back in after I had changed the thickness of the floor (drop-thru).

  7. #7
    flat broke
    I'm not a V'driver, but I'll give my nod to the poxy putty for the running gear. A jet intake adapter is epoxied into the hull using that stuff. Dries hard and doesn't let go. When you mix it, don't mix it so hot that it kicks off right away. Mask off the areas you're going to be applying the putty, lay a bed of it like Morg said, and get all of your parts installed and lined up before you start tightening your hardware. If it's stuff that supports it's own weight like a drop through strut, I'd set the expoxy, position the strut, pull up the tape for a clean line, and then let it cure. Come back the next day to drill your holes and install hardware. If it is something that needs to be supported by hardware, like a bolt on strut, install the hardware but don't tighten it, just snug it up. Get all your driveline aligned etc. Then let everything cure. Once it's cured, run down your hardware tight. By letting the epoxy harden before you tighten everything up, nothing will change dimension on you from overtightening one side of a flange etc.
    On the Cav plates, once again, never done em, so I wouldn't know. But I use 3m 5200 on the transom adapters for our boats and it does come in contact with oil in the bilge sometimes, but the stuff doesn't seem to break down like the regular GE/Home Depot 100% silicone adhesives.
    Good luck with it, The CBBB is commin soon!

  8. #8
    How about with the cav bolts? do you guys put silicone on the threads and screw them in to make sure no water squeezes through?
    I am also worried about the hole in the plate where the stuffing box goes through, seems like there is a little gap around there and water could leak up and go right into the wood, that could be where I got this delam problem in the first place. Should I just seal the hole up with silicone? once the stuffing box is in just go all around it?

  9. #9
    Like I said, if your not taking it apart all the time 3M 5200 will solve your issues. And nothing will disolve it once its cured. And you could throw away the bolts because it bonds so well.Silicon is not a positive seal, to many chemicals and even UV rays will break it down. All the suggestions are good. From experience anything you can seal with 5200 will do the best job. They even make a "Fast Cure" version to. It really depends on "what" your sealing. My advice based on experience.

  10. #10
    3 different suggestions, thanks. Now I will have to pick one. :idea:
    What did you expect? Did you actually believe everyone could agree on something :hammerhea ?

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