fiberglassing stringer

[mdlfnsatx]

i've finally got back to working on my boat, i previously removed the floor due to rotted plywood and also removed the styrofoam which was water soaked. the fiberglass had come detached from the center stringer. so my question is since the stringer isnt comeing apart and is dried out completely can i just refiberglass it again and do i need to repalce the styrofoam under the floor. if it matters the boat is a glenco. thanks

[DUCKY]

If the stringer is completely dry, and still firmly secured to the hull, I don't see any reason to replace it. You should clean the stringer and the surrounding area several times with acetone to make sure that it's dry and free of any oil. You should then grind (24 or 36 grit) the stringer, and on each side of the stringer 8-10" out to get it all smooth, and free of any other delaminated glass, and then clean it again. You should then be safe to re-cover it. Make sure you use mat first then cloth or bi-axial, because mat is the "sponge" that ensures the adhesion of the other materials.

[holorinhal]

Ducky,when reglassing the stringers,how many layers should be used,and what should the very outside layer be,cloth or mat?...Thank's...Hal

[DUCKY]

If the job is going to be "un-exposed" or appearance isn't of the utmost concern, then I would use a 2oz mat followed by a layer of 1708 bi-axial. If you are going for a "pretty" job, or intend to flowcoat over your work, then use a 2oz mat, followed by a 6oz cloth, then repeat. If you choose to use cloth, the secret to a nice looking job is to over soak the mat with resin, then lay down the cloth dry and use a squeegee to push out all the air, and your brush to mop up the excess resin. You can use a squeegee with the bi axial, but I prefer to use an aluminum fin roller. It leaves a little more resin in the laminate, and alot of people tend to pull too much resin out of the bi and tri axial woven cloths.

[mdlfnsatx]

ducky thanks for the info, i REALLY APPRECIATE IT. the stringer is completely dry and isnt coming apart at all. so i guess i got lucky there. i'll follow youre instructions and hopefully i'll be ready to get it wet soon. that is once the motor is back from the machine $hop. i say where does the money go ?? oh well $tyle co$t.

[DUCKY]

You're welcome. Good luck and feel free to call me if you have any more questions.

[El Prosecutor]

You're welcome. Good luck and feel free to call me if you have any more questions.
Is there any tricks to doing resin on plywood seat bottoms right?

[DUCKY]

Well, I don't know if it's a trick, but I have had the best luck with doing one coat with straight resin (catalyzed of course) and then going back over it with surfacing agent mixed into the resin. The wax in the surfacing agent will help to repel water. It's also not a bad idea to thin out at least the first coat of resin, so it will more readily soak into the wood. I prefer to use styrene monomer for this, at about 10-15%. It's a good idea to get at least one coat of resin on your pieces of wood, before assembly into a seat base, then coat the finished product later.

[El Prosecutor]

Thanks Ducky - sounds like a plan. Unless I hear different I will probably re-attach the vinyl to the bottoms with stainless T-50 staples. Is there a better way? Any problem with staples penetrating the two coats of hardened resin?

[DUCKY]

No problems with the staples, but I would suggest an air stapler. They can be had for around $50 these days. If you get one, you need to hook it up, hold the trigger down and file off the little piece that protrudes and countersinks the staple. That thing will blow the staple right through your vinyl. Good Luck!